2011 Utah Ice Conditions thread

pkmiller wrote:Does anyone have an update for conditions in Provo Canyon - particularly Miller's Thriller and Finger of Fate?

Here ya go: "An Avalanche Warning continues in effect for the mountains of northern and central Utah. Continued snow and wind will keep avalanche conditions Considerable to High."

Rapid warming on Sunday will not bode well either.

The ice is still holding in Provo. Joes is good and Santiquin has some nice big ice. Even the Great White Icicle is holding on. If you need a partner for the area let me know.
Dallen

Thanks guys. I have climbed a little in the area but not enough to know which routes would have avy danger and which would be relatively safer. Planning on climbing Sunday with the girlfriend, any recommendations? Been up GWI before - but would certainly do it again...

I was out today. Millers is good Finger of Fate is good. The fang looks good didn't get on that one. Upper falls has great access and is good. Liz's Undoing is good and easy to get to right now. Little Ouray (the pillars[icemate, playmate]). Is really good. UDOT did a ton of avalanche work in Provo canyon on Thursday of this week. Liz's undoing has very little hazard above it. It Little Ouray would be pretty good to.

Found a JetBoil at the foot of the Apron on Stairway tonight. Describe it and it's all yours!

From today's Wasatch avalanche forcast:

"the gullies above the ice climbing routes in the range are suspect with today’s heating. Put the tools away until it cools off later this week."

Everyone be careful out there and intentional with your decisions.

Not a surprise at all but Stairway to Heaven is a complete mess. Went out and did some laps on it but it's a drippy disaster. If it cools off again it'll be fine but at the moment it's pretty disgusting. Extremely sketchy to be on it for anything except top roping. Anything on the north side of Provo Canyon is almost nonexistent.

Well, duh.

I hate to say it but, give it up man it's over :(
at least around here...

I shouldn't say anything, but GWI was perfectly fine this morning--not mushy @ all. There's still ice out there. Just start early and get off before it warms up.

Clay,
Inspired?

So, I know it's 60 degrees and all, and most everything is a soupy mess...but is there any info on Joe's out there? I would think there would be something in around there.

What are the odds on climbable ice 1st week of April? Should I just plan on breaking out the rock shoes this trip...

RonB wrote:What are the odds on climbable ice 1st week of April? Should I just plan on breaking out the rock shoes this trip...

HAHAHAHAHAHA, better off pissing into the wind. The temps have been warm, damn warm, real warm. Things will be rotting and falling down. Way up high you will still find ice but it will be more of ice on the way while doing a snow slog.

Beta on Joe's Valley anyone?

Ditto on Joe's Valley. Does anyone think this weekend's cold snap will be enough to re-form some routes?

Matt Selman wrote:Ditto on Joe's Valley. Does anyone think this weekend's cold snap will be enough to re-form some routes?

Cold snap? Its 62F right now. Supposed to be near 70F tomorrow.

Nah, I don't think so.

NOAA:

Overnight: Scattered showers. Cloudy, with a low around 59. South southwest wind between 15 and 17 mph. Chance of precipitation is 30%.

Saturday: A 30 percent chance of showers, mainly after noon. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 69. Windy, with a south wind 18 to 21 mph increasing to between 40 and 43 mph. Winds could gust as high as 60 mph.

I don't know what NOAA you're looking at Brian. NOAA for Joe's Valley Dam:
Sunday: High of 37, low of 23
Monday: High of 31, low of 19
Tuesday: High of 37, low of 29
Conditions in SLC don't really reflect conditions on the Wasatch Plateau.

Allen Sanderson wrote: HAHAHAHAHAHA, better off pissing into the wind...

That could make for some odorous ice, but it does only take bit of wind will drop the surface temps from above freezing to below freezing. The last few early Aprils I've been out on the lake snowkiting. The mean daily temps are often still on the ice's side then. I'm hoping the north facing walls like at Strawberry will still not be seeing much sunlight too. I'm looking for a trilogy this spring trip: ice climb, ski, and desert rock. The weather may deign me, but I'm in denial till then...

Matt Selman wrote:I don't know what NOAA you're looking at Brian. NOAA for Joe's Valley Dam: Sunday: High of 37, low of 23 Monday: High of 31, low of 19 Tuesday: High of 37, low of 29 Conditions in SLC don't really reflect conditions on the Wasatch Plateau.

Not sure what calendar you're looking at Matt.
Monday and Tuesday aren't the weekend.

Har har.

Cold front really didn't hit Joes until about 5pm today. Before that, fairly warm Friday and Saturday.

Now its c-c-cold! Cold here in SLC too. Good enough to rebuild? Maybe up high.

Some weather conditions actually seem to effect both SLC and Joes (!). This winter storm for example.

I'm always super careful around ice when there's been big warming AND cooling swings.