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Frog Prince Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Frog Prince

L › R R › L A › Z

	Aretha S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Blind Man's Bluff S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Bovary S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Children of the Mojave S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Dairy Queen S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Dark Passage S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Dolores S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Driving Down Highway 40 In My Big Ol' Pickup Truck S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Freddie Prince Jr S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Frog Prince (a.k.a. Babies) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Gollum S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Mulva S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Raven, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Red Queen S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Through the Looking Glass S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	White Knight S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	White Queen S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Worrier or The Warrior, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	You Gotta Kiss a Lot of Frogs S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

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Elevation:	8,015 ft
GPS:	34.23008, -107.91611 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Access Issue: Thompson Canyon Details

The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route.

New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and please do not attempt to drive through the private ranch.

Description

This area, aka the Training Wall, or Babies Wall, is the place to go for short, hard, bouldery routes. There are also a handful of moderates on either side of the super steep wall. There's a gully on the right (E) side of the wall offering 3 longish moderates, all good warmups. The route on the left side of this gully is one of the only 5.10s at the Tower that receives early morning sun, so makes for an excellent Warmup.

Location

This wall is right (E) of the tower itself. To approach, park below the tower, and head up and right along the NM CRAG-constructed trail. Just above the first switchback the trail splits. Head right. Continue up and rightwards for 100 feet to the wall. The hard routes are all on the super steep wall at trail's end. The moderates can be found on either side of the steep wall.

Routes:

Routes listed from left to right

Left (W) side gully:

??; 5.9
Blind Man's Bluff; 5.11b
You Gotta Kiss a Lot of Frogs; 5.11b (new route, not in guidebook)
Freddie Prince Jr; 5.10b
The Raven; 5.11c

"The Money", Central portion (Not all routes listed. See comments below, many varants to these routes):

Gollum; 5.11d
Dairy Queen; 5.13b
Frog Prince (a.k.a. Babies); 5.12a
Red Queen; 5.13b
Through the Looking Glass; 5.12c
White Queen; 5.13b

Right (E) side gully:
Mulva; 5.10d (Left Side in the cove)
Dark Passage; 5.10d
Dolores; 5.10b (Right side, rightmost route in the cove)

19 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Frog Prince

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 119 ● Freddie Prince Jr Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 47 ● Dolores Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 21 ● Mulva Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 25 ● Dark Passage Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 29 ● Driving Down Highway 40 In My Bi… Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 35 ● Blind Man's Bluff Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a 45 ● Gollum Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 30 ● The Raven Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 39 ● Frog Prince (a.k.a. Babies) Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 14 ● Through the Looking Glass Sport
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c 11 ● White Queen Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c 7 ● Red Queen Sport