Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 3,853 ft
GPS: 40.39359, -123.32989
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 73,352 total · 366/month
Shared By: Lurk Er on Oct 12, 2007
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description Suggest change

Marble Caves sits high on a ridgeline above the South Fork of the Trinity River. The routes range from 50' to 180' in height on blue, gold and white-streaked limestone of typically excellent quality. There are currently about 75 routes here, from 5.7-5.14, with many routes falling in the 5.10-5.12 range. 

All of the walls are accessed via the same point, except for the Bowling Ball, which is on a separate formation. The walls are numbered above as they would be encountered on the approach, although the routes are listed from left to right. Regardless of where you go, you will almost certainly have the place entirely to yourself.

The Caves face southwest, so best times to climb are typically fall to spring. Winter can be prime time, although the access road is sometimes closed by snow in years of heavy precipitation. If the forecast is for 40-65 degrees and sunny, you're good to go. Most of the walls go into the sun between 10-11 AM. Summer is extremely hot and not recommended. Watch out for poison oak regardless of season.

Free camping can be found anywhere, as it's all on U.S. Forest Service property, but the best spots are at the parking for the main area (there's a large, flat landing just before you gain the trail), or at Pete's Pasture, which is at the turnoff from the primary access road to the main area trailhead. The landing at the trailhead is highly convenient, as you can just leave from camp, but is pretty small. Pete's Pasture requires a short drive but is better for groups and gets a lot of sun on those cold winter mornings...

See "Bigfoot Country Climbing" for more info, although the guidebook is out of date and hard to find. There are a good number of routes in the book that aren't on MP yet. Many routes are equipped with lower-off carabiners - these are not booty, please do not steal them!

Getting There Suggest change

In northern California, take Highway 36 west from Red Bluff (inland) or east from Fortuna (coast).

Near the tiny town of Forest Glen, take a right (if coming from the east) or a left (if coming from the west) on Forest Route 1S14, also referred to as Flume Gulch Road, which is where Rattlesnake Creek flows under Highway 36. This turnoff is identified by a large limestone tower on the north side of the road, and you should cross the creek almost immediately after turning off the highway.

Take Flume Gulch Road uphill for about 3 miles to the end of the pavement. This is marked by a large clearing ("Pete's Pasture") where the main road continues straight, and several side roads diverge to the left and right.  For the main area of the Caves, turn left onto Forest Service Road 1S14D, which is the right-most of two left turns, and the one that heads downhill.  Look for a pullout (big enough for 3-4 cars) about a mile down this road on the right and park. This road is passable to vehicles without high clearance or 4WD.

From the pullout, head up a short road to a small landing. The trail takes off from the back of the landing and should be pretty obvious. The first wall you will encounter is the Poison Garden. The next walls are the Mystery Tower, Dream Tower, Sunset Wall, Main Tower, Visionary Buttress, and Up And Down Wall, respectively. Expect about 15 minutes to the closest wall and 25 minutes to the furthest.

For the Bowling Ball, continue straight along the main road, past the junction with FS 1S14D and Pete's Pasture.  Park at mile post 10 in a small pullout on the left, which is usually marked by a cairn.  A steep trail heads downhill for about 5 minutes and will wrap you around the right side of the Bowling Ball to the base.

89 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Marble Caves Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Marble Caves

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 20
Birthday Boy
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 11
Amateur Hour
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 8
Bomb Shelter
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
Wonder Boy
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 6
Mutually Assured Seduction
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 10
My Up And Down Life
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 5
Pork Sword
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 6
Serenity Now
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 9
Fearless Leader
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 6
Save Your Lunch Money II
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 8
A.A.D.
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 6
Dragon's Breath
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 5
Golden Shower
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 8
Magic Kingdom
Sport
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
 4
Obliquity
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Birthday Boy 6. Visionary Buttress
 20
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Amateur Hour 6. Visionary Buttress
 11
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Bomb Shelter 5. Main Tower
 8
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Wonder Boy 6. Visionary Buttress
 7
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Mutually Assured Seduction 5. Main Tower
 6
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
My Up And Down Life 7. Up And Down Wall
 10
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Pork Sword 6. Visionary Buttress
 5
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Serenity Now 3. Dream Wall
 6
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Fearless Leader Bowling Ball
 9
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Save Your Lunch Money II 7. Up And Down Wall
 6
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
A.A.D. 2. Mystery Tower
 8
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Dragon's Breath Bowling Ball
 6
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Golden Shower 5. Main Tower
 5
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Magic Kingdom 2. Mystery Tower
 8
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Obliquity 6. Visionary Buttress
 4
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Marble Caves »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

loading