2011 Utah Ice Conditions thread
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bsmoot wrote: Conditions in Santaquin are excellent. ACT and Candlestick are in thick. ACT is as big as I've seen it in years.So are they less steep than the pictures I'm seeing elsewhere of years past? Also, is anyone interested in getting out on tuesday? My work schedule gives me the most difficult days off to find partners. Phone: 540-204-7951. Email: gafoto@gmail.com |
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Garret Nuzzo-Jones wrote: So are they less steep than the pictures I'm seeing elsewhere of years past?Not much difference in steepness...it's still Santaquin. 2/25 Update: The left side of the 2nd pitch pillar is a bit less than vertical. Get it while you can. |
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A buddy and I decided to try something a little different this week so we toured up Mineral Fork to check out Mineral Fork Falls. Its a bout 2 and 1/2 miles up canyon on the east side. We didn't end up climbing anything because we weren't super comfortable with avy conditions. There are some larger slopes above and we watched some spindrift come down the upper falls. The ice looked like it was in good shape though if anyone is looking for a little adventure once the snow settles a bit. |
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Where is Mineral Falls? That looks awesome. Rating? |
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Take care with the avy hazard. Just below the bottom end of this falls is where the snowboarder that was killed ended up. |
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I totally agree with both Sam and Brian and am in no way encouraging folks to be jumping on this right now. However, knowing that this thing slid significantly (to the ground) and recently made me a bit more comfortable being underneath it but we certainly did not hang out for long (I don't believe that the looker's right path has cut this season). This was purely recon. I certainly appreciate the voice of reason coming from concerned folks and encourage others to be very calculated in their risks. It has been a rough year in the skiing community. Thanks. |
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Trever W. wrote:However, knowing that this thing slid significantly (to the ground) and recently made me a bit more comfortable being underneath it but we certainly did not hang out for longHmm. Persistant weak layer and shallow snowpack this season has been deadly. I'd probably be just as uncomfortable under that slope (and maybe more so). Classic set up for a "repeater". Edit to add: utahavalanchecenter.org/acc… You can clearly see the location of the ice climb and the approach in the photo's from the UAC report. |
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Brian, I understand your concern. I really do. Just last month, I lost a very close friend of mine in an avalanche so I am certainly aware of the consequences of operating in that type of terrain. We have lost far too many in the Wasatch (another yesterday in Dutch Draw) and in the West, so I understand why people are hyper-focused on avalanche danger and I dont think that is a necessarily bad thing. However, I do believe that playing armchair quarterback without the full context is something that we as a community should avoid. There have been 13 driving deaths in Utah this year, yet you and I continue to drive in similar or worse conditions almost on a daily basis. These are the calculated decisions that we make everyday in climbing and life. |
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Trever W. wrote:However, I do believe that playing armchair quarterback without the full context is something that we as a community should avoid... These are the calculated decisions that we make everyday in climbing and life...Granted, moderate is nothing to ignore but it is also something that should not paralyze us from making calculated decisions.Glad you made a calculated decision. I appreciate the dialog and your willingness to discuss, as well as the report on conditions. I'd like to think I'm more than just a casual, armchair observer. I ski about every week, have for the last 27 years in the central Wasatch. And, I continue to see folks who ought to know better toss caution and their lives into the wind. It's frustrating. Mineral Fork is a scary place, especially in this type of snow year. I guess I just don't either have the skill, the data, the ability to gather enough and the type of information to make me think some of these areas are going to be "safe enough" this season, and, as such, I take a bit more caution with this type of terrain. I think recent conditions have changed, and, I'd caution folks to take care in this type of terrain today and this weekend. Take care and have fun! |
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Somebody left a glove at the parking area for The Least Complicated. Describe it and it's yours. |
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Just so everyone knows, Maple is still two thumbs down for ice. Not a lot has changed since Darren was up there. Not a single route on the main road or in the Left Hand Fork has formed to a reliable thickness. Also, Salt Lake folk, how is the Great White Crowdsicle holding up? I'd like to do that at least once this season... |
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Anyone have more current conditions for the Great White Icicle in LCC after the recent warm conditions? |
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Patrick Fink wrote:Anyone have more current conditions for the Great White Icicle in LCC after the recent warm conditions?Got back from it a few minutes ago. Soloed up the first two pitches, they're super stepped out. The rest of it is in, a little bit moist in places but highly climbable. Don't forget a 70M rope, it will make your life a lot easier. |
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FWIW, the Angle went on a bender and is lying in the road. The Squashed head blew chunks with the vomitus making it to the road as well. |
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Anybody take a peek at Frozen Assets lately? 'Tis the season. |
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Hey all... We lost a 13cm turbo and draw on pitch 1 of Stairway. The draw and screw should be somewhere between the base of the Apron and the boulder with belay chains. |
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Went down to Santaquin today. Hiked up to the unnamed climb on the north side of the canyon opposite ACT but it was too thin and baked out. |
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Alec wrote:Anybody take a peek at Frozen Assets lately? 'Tis the season.Drove past on the 15 the other day and tried hard to see it. I saw snow but didn't see ice. Might just be an avalanche chute right now. But honestly, you never really know until you hike in. |
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Does anyone have an update for conditions in Provo Canyon - particularly Miller's Thriller and Finger of Fate? |