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2011 Utah Ice Conditions thread

Garret Nuzzo Jones · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 1,436
bsmoot wrote: Conditions in Santaquin are excellent. ACT and Candlestick are in thick. ACT is as big as I've seen it in years.
So are they less steep than the pictures I'm seeing elsewhere of years past?

Also, is anyone interested in getting out on tuesday? My work schedule gives me the most difficult days off to find partners. Phone: 540-204-7951. Email: gafoto@gmail.com
bsmoot · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 3,183
Garret Nuzzo-Jones wrote: So are they less steep than the pictures I'm seeing elsewhere of years past?
Not much difference in steepness...it's still Santaquin.

2/25 Update: The left side of the 2nd pitch pillar is a bit less than vertical. Get it while you can.
Trever W. · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 60

A buddy and I decided to try something a little different this week so we toured up Mineral Fork to check out Mineral Fork Falls. Its a bout 2 and 1/2 miles up canyon on the east side. We didn't end up climbing anything because we weren't super comfortable with avy conditions. There are some larger slopes above and we watched some spindrift come down the upper falls. The ice looked like it was in good shape though if anyone is looking for a little adventure once the snow settles a bit.

The two upper falls from the approach

The lower falls. Ice seemed really solid.

A crack that splits 1/3 of the pillar. Upon closer inspection, it looked pretty mended.

The main upper falls.

Josh Allred · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 161

Where is Mineral Falls? That looks awesome. Rating?

paintrain · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 75
mountainproject.com/v/miner…

It looks like its in good shape. Pack the skis.

pT
Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,711

Take care with the avy hazard. Just below the bottom end of this falls is where the snowboarder that was killed ended up.

IMHO, Mineral Fork is no place to be in high avy hazard. Been a fair number of fatalities in recent years up there.

Trever W. · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 60

I totally agree with both Sam and Brian and am in no way encouraging folks to be jumping on this right now. However, knowing that this thing slid significantly (to the ground) and recently made me a bit more comfortable being underneath it but we certainly did not hang out for long (I don't believe that the looker's right path has cut this season). This was purely recon. I certainly appreciate the voice of reason coming from concerned folks and encourage others to be very calculated in their risks. It has been a rough year in the skiing community. Thanks.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,711
Trever W. wrote:However, knowing that this thing slid significantly (to the ground) and recently made me a bit more comfortable being underneath it but we certainly did not hang out for long
Hmm.

Persistant weak layer and shallow snowpack this season has been deadly.

I'd probably be just as uncomfortable under that slope (and maybe more so). Classic set up for a "repeater".

Edit to add:

utahavalanchecenter.org/acc…

You can clearly see the location of the ice climb and the approach in the photo's from the UAC report.
Trever W. · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 60

Brian, I understand your concern. I really do. Just last month, I lost a very close friend of mine in an avalanche so I am certainly aware of the consequences of operating in that type of terrain. We have lost far too many in the Wasatch (another yesterday in Dutch Draw) and in the West, so I understand why people are hyper-focused on avalanche danger and I don’t think that is a necessarily bad thing. However, I do believe that playing armchair quarterback without the full context is something that we as a community should avoid. There have been 13 driving deaths in Utah this year, yet you and I continue to drive in similar or worse conditions almost on a daily basis. These are the calculated decisions that we make everyday in climbing and life.

On the day that I spent 15 minutes underneath mineral fork falls, the avalanche danger for the slopes above us was forecast as moderate (this was before our recent wind events) not the considerable that was forecast for the day of the Kessler accident. Granted, moderate is nothing to ignore but it is also something that should not paralyze us from making calculated decisions. There was also considerably less loading given that an average of three feet had slid less than a month ago, taking with it much of that persistent weak layer that you referred to. The likelihood of anyone jumping around on the slopes above us was also probably pretty low during that short amount of time. All of these things factored in to our decision. So I don’t really buy the “classic repeater” argument. This was a very different situation with very different outcomes from the one on January 28th.

There is nothing black and white about risk. We all place ourselves along a continuum depending on our comfort levels and what we personally deem acceptable. Perhaps I am a bit further along that continuum than you, while guys like Dean Potter and Alex Honnold are further along still. Does it mean that those guys have poor judgment or are in someway less of a person? Of course not. I respect your decision to not put yourself in that position and in fact, no one will ever criticize you for taking the conservative choice. I realize that it is much easier to simply quote the avy center rather than critically taking into account numerous factors that contribute to a situation, but it is when we stop making decisions based on all of the resources that are available to us that we get into trouble.

Anyway, this is an ice conditions thread so I will turn it back over. Thank you for allowing me my rant and I appreciate your time and concern.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,711
Trever W. wrote:However, I do believe that playing armchair quarterback without the full context is something that we as a community should avoid... These are the calculated decisions that we make everyday in climbing and life...Granted, moderate is nothing to ignore but it is also something that should not paralyze us from making calculated decisions.
Glad you made a calculated decision. I appreciate the dialog and your willingness to discuss, as well as the report on conditions.

I'd like to think I'm more than just a casual, armchair observer. I ski about every week, have for the last 27 years in the central Wasatch. And, I continue to see folks who ought to know better toss caution and their lives into the wind. It's frustrating.

Mineral Fork is a scary place, especially in this type of snow year. I guess I just don't either have the skill, the data, the ability to gather enough and the type of information to make me think some of these areas are going to be "safe enough" this season, and, as such, I take a bit more caution with this type of terrain.

I think recent conditions have changed, and, I'd caution folks to take care in this type of terrain today and this weekend.

Take care and have fun!
Nikki Smith · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 75

Somebody left a glove at the parking area for The Least Complicated. Describe it and it's yours.

Matt Selman · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 200

Just so everyone knows, Maple is still two thumbs down for ice. Not a lot has changed since Darren was up there. Not a single route on the main road or in the Left Hand Fork has formed to a reliable thickness. Also, Salt Lake folk, how is the Great White Crowdsicle holding up? I'd like to do that at least once this season...

Patrick Fink · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2011 · Points: 1

Anyone have more current conditions for the Great White Icicle in LCC after the recent warm conditions?

Garret Nuzzo Jones · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 1,436
Patrick Fink wrote:Anyone have more current conditions for the Great White Icicle in LCC after the recent warm conditions?
Got back from it a few minutes ago. Soloed up the first two pitches, they're super stepped out. The rest of it is in, a little bit moist in places but highly climbable. Don't forget a 70M rope, it will make your life a lot easier.
Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,203

FWIW, the Angle went on a bender and is lying in the road. The Squashed head blew chunks with the vomitus making it to the road as well.

Alec L · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 632

Anybody take a peek at Frozen Assets lately? 'Tis the season.

Eli Harry · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 75

Hey all... We lost a 13cm turbo and draw on pitch 1 of Stairway. The draw and screw should be somewhere between the base of the Apron and the boulder with belay chains.

It'd be worth a six pack to me and probably a 12 pack to my buddy if you manage to find it and return it!

Thanks,
Eli

Have you seen Me???

Garret Nuzzo Jones · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 1,436

Went down to Santaquin today. Hiked up to the unnamed climb on the north side of the canyon opposite ACT but it was too thin and baked out.

Squashed Head is in pretty decent shape. The second pitch is a little thin in spots but it was fun.

Runoff looks like it's in very nicely but I didn't get a close look at it.

Angel of Fear is mostly in the road with just a couple drips hanging on.

Candlestick is large, but the top looks rotten, brown and kind of detached.

Climbed the first pitch of ACT on the left side which was a lot of fun (and challenging). It currently looks like:

Automatic Control Theory

Got real drippy in the late afternoon.

Christian "crisco" Burrell · · PG, Utah · Joined May 2007 · Points: 1,815
Alec wrote:Anybody take a peek at Frozen Assets lately? 'Tis the season.
Drove past on the 15 the other day and tried hard to see it. I saw snow but didn't see ice. Might just be an avalanche chute right now. But honestly, you never really know until you hike in.
pkmiller · · Golden, CO · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 0

Does anyone have an update for conditions in Provo Canyon - particularly Miller's Thriller and Finger of Fate?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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