Cerro Torre: the mountaineering community's response
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my point is that lama's accomplishments seems like they are getting downplayed around north america ,,,, |
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the fact that maestri sat on cerro torre with a compressor drill and bolted an entire route, then without even finishing said route claimed a FA, is ludicris in the first place. |
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I have always thought David Lama was a tool... always hated him. Not for what he did to Cerro Torre but for what he did to a beautiful mountain in Malaysia and for how he left the local community there without any way to climb or profit from his bolting bonanza. |
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superkick wrote:the fact that maestri sat on cerro torre with a compressor drill and bolted an entire route, then without even finishing said route claimed a FA, is ludicris in the first place. Who gives a rats ass if this dumbasses route was chopped? It should have been eons ago.Likewise who gives a crap if it was aid-climbed again? The news, in case you crusty mountain-men missed it, is that a young man actully climbed that mountain. Now that, is impressive. |
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"100% of those who agree found to be in agreement on Cerro Torre."
One of the best things I've read this year...especially in the context of the url... Funny to me to watch DL get castigated last year all over sites, people all on a warpath to boycott red bull, hatred for the "sporty" fella then the kid comes back and well, fires the rig. In great style. JMO. Congrats, Mr. Lama. Who will be the first to repeat I guess, is the next question...probably no one on that "list"...who knows? Not until a few metres beneath the snowfield, approximately 20 metres above my last solid friend, Im able to connect two stoppers, a pin and a cam as my last placement. I'm not lining up, that's for sure....bueller...anyone? |
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Scott O wrote: Why, then, is there objection to chopping the route?I object because the bolt chopping in El Chalten will inspire the same thing that followed the bolt wars in the 80s in the US - climbing regulation. My guess is that within 2 years we'll have climbing permit fees and climbing rules managed by the National Park in El Chalten. To me, regulation and fees is a bigger problem for "free" climbing than a bolt ladder from 1970. If somebody wanted to do a restoration project down there, it would have been a much more well-received choice to remove the hundreds of meters of Ferrari's cable ladders from Fitz Roy's east pillar and all the alpinist trash, broken cable ladders, and rotting gear stashes from Paso Superior. For some reason, all the activists and luminaries don't seem to mind these much more visible alpinist messes. |
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Maybe this will clear things up for some of you: |
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planetmountain.com/english/…
more thread necro ... mister bridwell's article on the chopping ... In brief I would say; it is not a right to change or destroy someone elses creation, it only takes away the right of all others to repeat Maestri's route. and a new FA from that sport weenie lama ... alpinist.com/doc/web12w/new… Nighttime temperatures plummeted; while leading the next morning's first rope length Lama "couldn't feel [his] fingers." Protection opportunities gradually became rarer and rarer. "Looking down, I could barely see my last piece of gear," reports Lama. Ortner took the lead for the next pitch, encountering the same freezing temperatures and runout climbing. The pair continued for another six pitches until the climbing above looked altogether impossible. After a long traverse to more accessible terrain, Lama and Ortner settled onto a ledge and spent their second night on the wall. ^^^ nice sport route ;) |