Chains as TR anchors: a problem?
|
The attached photo: |
|
Why not clip quickdraws to the chains and then clip the rope through the other ends of the draws? Might eliminate that pinching action. |
|
Seems to me like clipping each carabiner through both of the links would also fix the issue. |
|
If the rope pulls freely, then the use of the carabiners is fine. I usually just build an anchor off the bolts, then, when done climbing, thread the rope through the quicklinks to rap off. |
|
caughtinside wrote:Zero issues... except on the internet.Got that right. Sheesh. That setup is about as ideal as it gets. The rope isn't even touching the rock at all. Toprope the shit out of that. |
|
Sheesh is right. BTW, flip the front biner and your "pinching" goes away. For what its worth, the bolts should be a bit farther apart. |
|
Yer gonna die! |
|
That set up looks about perfect to me. Gotta agree with caughtinside on this one. |
|
Just use 1 locker. |
|
Rmsyll wrote:What I see is the rope being squeezed between the spines of the carabiners.I actually cannot imagine a simple two-point anchor that does not feature rope pinching unless you elect to equalize between the two of them. Even as is, when the whole thing comes under load, the chains themselves will shift just a bit so that the pinching is minimized. Of course, equalizing between two big burly bolts with big burly chains says, in no uncertain terms, that you expect to be toproping so hard that you'll exceed the strength ratings of both bolt and chain but somehow not break the carabiner involved. I don't like using chains in my anchor, but otherwise, it does not get any better than this setup. |
|
Rmsyll wrote:What I see is the rope being squeezed between the spines of the carabiners.It's only going to cause drag (pinching) when the rope is loaded, so a little more friction during a fall or while lowering. No worries. If you flip the left biner, and reversed the right one (i.e. gates facing each other and wide end down) it wouldn't pinch like that at all. |
|
Not enough locking biners. Next time use at least four or it's considered dangerous. |
|
Mike Lane wrote:Sheesh is right. BTW, flip the front biner and your "pinching" goes away. For what its worth, the bolts should be a bit farther apart.Exactly. My thoughts on the flipped 'biner and space the bolts about 6 inches further apart and it's sweet to go. |
|
'JulianB' said "Why not clip quickdraws to the chains...." |
|
that set up is fine. |
|
Your in more danger sitting on your couch than top roping on that anchor. Maybe it will kink your rope a bit. Move the biners around til the rope runs smooth. No need to "oppose" lockers. |
|
Mike Lane wrote:Sheesh is right. BTW, flip the front biner and your "pinching" goes away. For what its worth, the bolts should be a bit farther apart.The bolt spacing is probably fine. Those look like they're probably about 6 inches apart and there is one powerbolt (5-piece) and one wedge anchor. Both the powerbolt and the wedge anchor have a minimum spacing of 2 x the length of the bolt to achieve full strength and they are most likely 2.25" to 3" in length. |
|
Jim Reynolds wrote:Yer gonna die! I just had too...good call |
|
Rmsyll wrote:'prod.' said "Just use 1 locker." Well, yeah. But people are so set on "redundancy" at this location.Don't worry about what "people" are doing. Worry about yourself. 1 locker or 2 opposed regular biners is pretty common. Prod. |
|
its a TR anchor on 2 bolts .... jeez ;) |
|
'bearbreeder' commanded 'lets not have massive amounts of posts on TR anchor analysis on bolts" |