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Two specs on one piece of gear?

Original Post
MegaGaper2000 James · · Indianola, Wa · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 20

Inspecting my petzl ascension ascenders in preparation for a bit of toprope soloing, I noticed that the devices each (l and r) seem to have TWO specs stamped into them, specifying different dimensions of rope. Anybody else know what the deal is?

Specifically, on the front (cam side) of the ascender, "rope 8<o<13" is stamped into the metal. But on the back "for rope 11<o<13" is anodized into the metal.

wtf - Is this confusing, or am I just confused?

My ascenders are EN567 ascensions (the older ones) that I bougt new at REI a few years ago.

Ethan Henderson · · Washington · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 602

Perhaps 11-13 is the ideal rope size? But it'll work fine on 8-13?

get an ushba, mini trax or micro ascender for solo tr ;)

Crag Dweller · · New York, NY · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125

don't worry about it. it's no problem just so long as you're using a 12mm rope.

seriously, though, i'd be wondering too. it's probably just a 'cosmetic blemish' but how long has it been since 11mm ropes were the small end of the range that anyone would use?

coldfinger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 55
MegaGaper2000 wrote: Anybody else know what the deal is?
Trolls suck. OR

Or you got ripped off!!!!
paintrain · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 75
petzl.com/files/all/technic…

The EN specification is for climbing applications. It will work on ropes 8 to 13 mil.

The other number(s) usually have an accompanying standard that relates to industrial or rescue application standards I believe.

Pt
MegaGaper2000 James · · Indianola, Wa · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 20

Thanks everybody for the ideas. It's pretty obvious Ascensions work fine on rope at least down to 9mm, given, you know, a decade of people not dieing. That said, it is a wee bit unsettling, not to mention confusing.

I also emailed Petzl. I think paintrain's explanation is most likely. One standard has a little climbing man stamped next to it. The other is next to the Underwriter's Laboratory symbol, and under "Meets NFPA 1983."

Anyway, I'll put it up here whener I hear back from Petzl.

Also, @ coldfinger - I don't think I got ripped off since I bought them new at REI. And yes, I am a troll. Definitely.

JoeP · · Littleton, CO · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 0

Could also be specifying the diameter of rope for use with the device for self belaying, i.e. TR solo. The current version of the Ascension, like the Basic, are compatible with ropes 8-13mm, but when used for TR solo, the rope must be 10mm or larger.

Perhaps because your ascenders are the old version, the minimum rope spec for TR solo is 11mm rather than 10mm.

Brendan Blanchard · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 590

If there is not a bolt or specific piece holding the rope into the camming device (not present on ascenders for aiding) then I would NOT use the ascender for TR-soloing. If the ascender twists during a fall, you're done and no back-up knots will save you either. Get a Minitrax, Microcender, Cinch, Gri-Gri etc.

JoeP · · Littleton, CO · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 0
Brendan Blanchard wrote:If there is not a bolt or specific piece holding the rope into the camming device (not present on ascenders for aiding) then I would NOT use the ascender for TR-soloing. If the ascender twists during a fall, you're done and no back-up knots will save you either. Get a Minitrax, Microcender, Cinch, Gri-Gri etc.
The biner used to attach the ascender to the harness (through the upper hole) acts as a keeper to hold the rope in the device. As to back-up knots, if you are tying them only so that they stop the device in case it slips, you might have had a point, but if the knots are clipped to the belay loop, no problem. That begs the question, why not just use a backup device, which would solve your percived problem with knots. As for the other devices you list, each has its own drawbacks. The ascender will work fine, however, the handle at his waist might be cumbersome.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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