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Love Shack Wall Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Love Shack Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	(0.5) Cayman Nights S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	(02) Throwin' the Hoola Girl S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	(05) Leapin' Lizzards S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Bric-a-Brac Crack S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Cayman Daze S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
	Parrot Trooper S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

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Elevation:	73 ft
GPS:	19.7215, -79.7584 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	4,276 total · 24/month
Shared By:	Anthony Stout on Jun 11, 2009 · Updates
Admins:	Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Bird closures Details

For route closures in Cayman Brac due to bird nests, see info here: climb.ky/2021/04/20/birds-a…

Description

Unless you climb really hard, you will find warming up on this wall to be quite challenging, as the easiest route is the steep and dynamic Leapin' Lizzards at 5.11d. So most people warm up at the Stargazer Wall, a one minute walk to the right. Stargazer has high-quality routes at 9+ and 11a.

Climbing here becomes nice in the afternoon, as the sun leaves it between 3:30 and 4:00 in March.

Getting There

If staying at the Bluff View house, walk out the door, turn right (west), and walk along the South Side Road for a few minutes until you get to a meadow. If coming from the west, it is 2.7 miles (4.3 km) east of the Ashton Reid Road (aka Bluff Road). The crag is obvious from the road: steep white rock with a left-angling crack.

Climbs (Right to Left)

All routes have Titanium Bolts
(0.5) Cayman Nights 12c
Cayman Daze 13b Open project
(01) Bric-a-brac Crack 12b
(02) Throwin' the Hoola Girl 12a
(03) Parrot Trooper 12c/d, finger-size dependent
(05) Leapin' Lizzards 11d/12a, harder for short people