Magical Mystery Tour
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British PG13
Avg: 2.8 from 12 votes
Routes in The Overlook
Agent Orange T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c | |
Alley Oop T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Amateur Hour T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Amputation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Angel's Delight T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c | |
Answered Prayers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Applesticks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Blunderbuss T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Burger King T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Burnt Buns T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Bush Rush T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Cakewalk AKA Coffin Corner T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 | |
Circus Circus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Circus du Soleil T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Cloudwalk T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Constant Gardener T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
CrackUp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Devil's Deed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Direct Left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Duck Soup T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Dugald's Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Dugald's Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Dyzygy T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Everyday 5.3/ Head Cheese link up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Forget me Not T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Fresh Air T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Gambit T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
George's Niche T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Gingerbread T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c | |
Gridle, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Griffo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Grunt'N'Dangle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Hand Jive T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 | |
Hard Rain T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Head Cheese T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Hidden Hollow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R | |
Horn, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
I've Always Been Crazy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Isaiah T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Jelly Roll T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Left Trinity Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Long Walk, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R | |
Looked Over T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Magical Mystery Tour T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 | |
Magumba's Corner T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Mellow Yellow T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 | |
Microtome T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Middle Trinity Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Mint Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Mint Julep T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Morning After T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Morning's Mourning T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Nickle Slot T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Normally 3 Rurps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Normally Urgent T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Obediah T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Obscurity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Orange Julius T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 | |
Orange Out Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
PegLeg I, II T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Pensativa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Piddley Shit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Red Wagon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Redrum AKA Jungleland T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
Right Trinity Crack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Satisfaction Guaranteed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 | |
Sexual Deviations T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Shining, AKA Not Fade Away, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Sin Ropa T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R | |
Sintisa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Sneak Preview T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R | |
Sparky and the Firedog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Stalemate T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Stonegate T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 | |
Swedish Britfast Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Syzygy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Too Proud to Geek T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 | |
Trinity Arete TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Trinity Roofs T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Wager Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 | |
Wanderlust T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Paul Davidson, John Fleming, September 1977 |
Page Views: | 1,991 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Paul Davidson on Nov 10, 2008 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Access Issue: Climbing restricted due to tourist safety
Details
ACCESS NOTE: Please note that the forest service has restricted climbing for any routes past the area of Red Wagon (just left of the Trinity Cracks) due to tourist safety. Local access groups are working to get this restriction lifted.
Description
When we did this climb, we didn't think much of the fact that you're climbing over a huge flake. Young and dumb and fresh off a climbing trip...
The flake is probably good given how much rock is pressing it into place. But you'll have to make up your mind as to the safety of the route. I won't do it again and probably wouldn't let my kids do it either. It has had a few ascents that I know of and probably a lot more that I don't.
The climbing moves are good and once you're 15 feet up and established into the main corner, the rock is solid.
I believe this climb was the first 5.11 led in the Flagstaff area. Certainly the first 5.11 at the Overlook. The Gleason's had TR'd some 11+/12- stuff at West Elden (Right Elephant Crack, aka Red Asphalt.) Ed Webster had led Twilight Zone and rated it 5.11 but consensus has put that at 5.10.
Toula's original guide called out danger due to wasps.
Named for the end of a great summer climbing trip and in honor of John's moving off to Albuquerque for graduate school.
The flake is probably good given how much rock is pressing it into place. But you'll have to make up your mind as to the safety of the route. I won't do it again and probably wouldn't let my kids do it either. It has had a few ascents that I know of and probably a lot more that I don't.
The climbing moves are good and once you're 15 feet up and established into the main corner, the rock is solid.
I believe this climb was the first 5.11 led in the Flagstaff area. Certainly the first 5.11 at the Overlook. The Gleason's had TR'd some 11+/12- stuff at West Elden (Right Elephant Crack, aka Red Asphalt.) Ed Webster had led Twilight Zone and rated it 5.11 but consensus has put that at 5.10.
Toula's original guide called out danger due to wasps.
Named for the end of a great summer climbing trip and in honor of John's moving off to Albuquerque for graduate school.
6 Comments