Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: Tim Fisher (1988) direct finish Seth Tart
Page Views: 3,209 total · 17/month
Shared By: Stuart Turner on Nov 12, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is a great route that is often overlooked due to some obscure pro. The route climbs in two distinct sections. After gaining the route (see protection) a relatively short crux trough the dihedral gets you to some jugs at the roof. This is followed by some intense face climbing to the traverse and the anchors (on Reckless Abandon. This was the original route done by Fisher (12a). The route feels short, but when you lower off you see that it takes a full 60. The direct finish pushes strait up the face to a second bolt and a jug. From hear a hard move to an undercling gets you to a second anchor.

Location Suggest change

Between Reckless and Death Wish

Protection Suggest change

It is recommended that you use double ropes (pro out left on Nut Sweat) because of the unprotectable traverse (5.10). There is some gear after the traverse and a bolt at a stance in the base of the dihedral. After the first crux, clip fixed pins and bolts for the remainder of the route. 

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