Climbing near Roanoke, VA

Any suggestions for sport/trad/bouldering near Roanoke, VA? Heading back there for a wedding in late May and will most likely need to hit the rock to keep my buzz. I'd be willing to drive about an hour or two from Roanoke.

Thanks-
Paul

McAfee's knob has some bouldering. I have not been there so I can't speak for the quality, but I know some guys would drive 2-3 hrs from Richmond to go there.

As far as I know it is close to Roanoke.

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Fool's face down by the New. Just a few fairly easy TR and single pitch lead routes (up to ~5.8).

White face. Across the river from Fool's (same strata). As I recall, this is all lead territory from 5.easy with a spot of 5.10 on a pitch or two.

A lot of amazingly good but illegal buildering on the Tech campus.

Ask any Tech student how to get to the tubing on the New -- that's where you'll find Fool's face.

I'm afraid that's pretty much it, at least it was when I was at Tech 25+ years ago. We always looked forward to weekends spent at Seneca.

Richard Radcliffe wrote:Fool's face down by the New. Just a few fairly easy TR and single pitch lead routes (up to ~5.8). White face. Across the river from Fool's (same strata). As I recall, this is all lead territory from 5.easy with a spot of 5.10 on a pitch or two. A lot of amazingly good but illegal buildering on the Tech campus. Ask any Tech student how to get to the tubing on the New -- that's where you'll find Fool's face. I'm afraid that's pretty much it, at least it was when I was at Tech 25+ years ago. We always looked forward to weekends spent at Seneca.

Actually, there is another "decent" crag option that is just as close as fool's face (and MUCH better) and can actually be less "approach" time than McAfee's proper. It's in Iron Gate, VA. on the north side of town. The crag is simply known as Iron Gate. You can find info on rc.com.

Hidden rocks by Harrisonburg isn't too bad, the approach is short, but so are the routes.

Aye, there be choss near Roanoke. When are you going to be in town? I'd be glad to take you out to some local stuff (less than 25 mins from downtown). The other options are:

McAfee's Knob - good bouldering, 20 min drive + 1.5 hr approach
Iron Gate - kinda chossy sport climbing with a handful of gems, about 50 min drive, short approach
New River Gorge - no description needed, 2.5 hour drive from Roanoke
Seneca Rocks - awesomeness, about 3 hr drive from Roanoke

Fool's Face as mentioned by a previous poster is not worth the drive from Roanoke.

Feel free to PM me for more beta!

Pete Hickman wrote:Hidden rocks by Harrisonburg isn't too bad, the approach is short, but so are the routes.

Hidden is great as a local training crag, but certainly a bit of a haul from Roanoke. An extra 30 minutes of driving will put you at the New.

2nd Mountain is the best bouldering near Harrisonburg. Not as good as McAffee's Knob, but a much shorter approach. You can find my guide for 2nd on drtopo.com

Are there any updates to this location? I just moved here and tried to find it thisafternoon and couldn't seem to locate. Probably just need a set of eyes that has been there before. If anyone's interested in meeting one afternoon please let me know. I would at least like to try and find it before christmas and my brother comes to town.

Are there any updates to this location? I just moved here and tried to find it thisafternoon and couldn't seem to locate. Probably just need a set of eyes that has been there before. If anyone's interested in meeting one afternoon please let me know. I would at least like to try and find it before christmas and my brother comes to town.

Roanoke river gorge.....

muttonface wrote:The best sport crag near you is Franklin Gorge, WV. Although, for a couple hours more, you can hit the NRG.

Franklin is 3 hours away. The New is 2 and a half......skip the local places and go to the New.

Is it worth the time going to Roanoke river Gorge, i usually only have a few hours at time, and was looking for something close. Like i mentioned i took a walk there the other day but couldnt locate the "descent gully" or how to access the lower cliffs. anyone up for a quick trip to show me whats there?

Well tried one more time yesterday, and not sure where i went wrong. Do you literally climb off the back of the round stone mansonry overlook and climb down the rocks there to access the river and lower cliffs? Is the decent gully located where the first little foot bridge is on the loop trail?
i had a friend with me yesterday and neither of us thought it looked right.

Went for a little walk the other day near hanging rock in Roanoke and found some bolts on top of the rocks on the trail behind the hanging rock market? Any info, I was supprised.