Trick of the Tail
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British A3+
Avg: 4 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, Aid, 800 ft (242 m), 8 pitches, Grade IV |
FA: | Jeremy Aslaksen & Paul Gagner |
Page Views: | 3,051 total · 20/month |
Shared By: | Jeremy Aslaksen on Dec 9, 2011 |
Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Trick of the Tail
The route pretty much starts about 100 feet right of the start of West Side Story. You will be able to see 1 bolt about 20 feet off the deck.
Head up following good cracks till you eventually hit Road Kill. At the top of the initial Road Kill pillar, climb road kill for 20 feet or so (clipping a Road Kill bolt) and start working right.
Eventually you will surmount a roof and belay. Head right on 5.10++ no hold slab climbing to a bolt (possible 40 footer over the roof and onto the belay) keep heading right (beaks) to another bolt and then cruise to the shoulder via the pretty good crack system (bolts here and there).
Once at the shoulder, cruise around the backside (Intifada) of Cottontail and climb the last pitch of WSS to the summit.
Rack:
12 - #1 Peckers
20 - #2 Peckers
10 - #3 Peckers
2 - Specters
3 sets small cams/offset cams
3 sets Camalots .5 to 3
2 sets Camalots 3.5 to 4
1 - 4.5 Camalot
Free shoes for pitch 4
Head up following good cracks till you eventually hit Road Kill. At the top of the initial Road Kill pillar, climb road kill for 20 feet or so (clipping a Road Kill bolt) and start working right.
Eventually you will surmount a roof and belay. Head right on 5.10++ no hold slab climbing to a bolt (possible 40 footer over the roof and onto the belay) keep heading right (beaks) to another bolt and then cruise to the shoulder via the pretty good crack system (bolts here and there).
Once at the shoulder, cruise around the backside (Intifada) of Cottontail and climb the last pitch of WSS to the summit.
Rack:
12 - #1 Peckers
20 - #2 Peckers
10 - #3 Peckers
2 - Specters
3 sets small cams/offset cams
3 sets Camalots .5 to 3
2 sets Camalots 3.5 to 4
1 - 4.5 Camalot
Free shoes for pitch 4
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