Comprehensive List of North America's hard cracks, 5.13 and up?

Ok, I edited the list with Lee's NM additions, as well as the Dr's additional Mattson routes. Also re-added the Wasp and Less Than Zero, per Josh and Larry's convincing arguments for inclusion. Also added Ring That Bell n NoUT, that thing looks sweet.

Oh, and Chris, nice list of OWs; I did include Army of Darkness in the original list. From the descriptions of it, it doesn't seem to be an OW, does it?

Is the Gunfighter at Hueco still considered 13a?

Okay, this is minutia, but Fiddler On The Roof is probably not 13d, unless you do it the way Petro did. Ascents in the "modern era" have been much more dynamic. I have heard 13b or c from a couple of Casper folks who have sent it.

Pretty sure that Mason put up something this fall with Nico in/around Moab that is a 13ish crack...check his blog, it's probably on there.

Puma (13), Donner Summit, FA: Suzuki
Star Wars Crack (13-), Donner Summit, FA: Suzuki
Love Supreme (13-), Tuolumne, FA: Bachar
Whippersnapper (13-), Tuolumne, FA: Croft
Broken Arrow (13), Tuolumne, FA: Kauk
Casablanca (13-), Yosemite Valley, FA: (TR) Kauk, FL: Suzuki
Title Fight (13-), Yosemite Valley, FA: Suzuki
Excellent Adventure (13), Yosemite Valley, FA: Croft

It's worth noting that Casablanca is a 25' variation start to another route (Robin) and that Love Supreme is about 40' high.

Excellent Adventure was mentioned previously by Luke but never made the list.

Will S wrote:Pretty sure that Mason put up something this fall with Nico in/around Moab that is a 13ish crack...check his blog, it's probably on there.

camhead wrote: That would be Hot Pork Sundae; it's already on the list.

Not to continue the debate about a few of the routes here, but The Wasp and Less Than Zero are not crack climbs. LTZ has two hand jams and maybe five finger locks over 70 ft. The Wasp has about 25 feet of crack climbing that really turns out to be mostly 5.11 sidepulling (the other 60 feet of the climb is nearly entirely downward pulling holds). If these two routes qualify, then the list should also include Surf's Up, 'Fraid Line, and Free Line in Eldo and Air Sweden in the Creek as all of these have at least as much crack climbing on them as The Wasp and Less Than Zero and are all well into the 5.13 grade. Also, it really does seem like people who have extensively climbed 5.13 trad around the US find The Wasp and Less Than Zero to be 12+. They're still quite hard and incredibly high quality routes, but I understood Camhead's OP to be exclusionary; that is, to create a set of criteria to narrow the list, not expand it. There must be hundreds of lines in North America that are graded 5.13 by at least one person and follow a crack feature of some sort. To me, there is an elegance to holding strict criteria and ending up with a chiseled list. If The Wasp or LTZ (or any other route) doesn't make the list, it doesn't mean the route sucks or isn't an achievement to climb; it only means the route doesn't satisfy these completely arbitrary criteria.

"There is at least one 5.13 at trout. It was a project last year, assume it got sent by now. "

FWIW there aren't currently any established .13s at Trout Creek and there are definitely none that involve jamming through the crux. The hardest grade anything at Trout with any length of actual crack climbing tends to top out around 5.12+. The current open projects (one of which Tommy Caldwell came close on, which you might be talking about) has very few holds/moves involving anything you might call a 'jam' and nobody's worked it since.

There's a new 5.13 overhung-green-aliens crack in Tuolumne at the Power Wall:

supertopo.com/climbing/thre…

Worth noting that Croft tried it years back and didn't get it...

Highlander wrote: They put up a new route this fall at the Moab Town Wall called Going to Hollywood 5.13-, in the same vicinity as the Hidden Gem..

Josh Janes wrote:Regarding the Wasp... I've heard a lot of people call it 5.12+ and a lot of people call it 5.13a.

The Evictor took me 11 days to do (from the first time I ever TR'd it until the day I redpointed it). The Wasp took me 4. Which one is "harder" I can't say.

camhead wrote:Oh, and Chris, nice list of OWs; I did include Army of Darkness in the original list. From the descriptions of it, it doesn't seem to be an OW, does it?

Another to add, although it may be arguable:

Joshua Tree: Perfidious 5.13b

Right in the campground. Has a few bolts and some fixed heads, but you will use gear too. It does climb like a crack with hard tips liebacking.

In Boulder Canyon, The Throne Crack 13b Blob Rock

good call peter!

The Virgin at Moss Island (aka One Over the Hill) was originally graded 12c, but has settled in the 13- range. You may not want to include it though, as it's about 30 feet long.

Also, Coffin Crack at the Dihedrals is an old aid line that likely will go free at 14/14+.

Bump.

Cool video of Hong's Glad to be Trad:

vimeo.com/62021717

Looks pretty awesome!

didn't watch the video - but for some reason the opening screen shot doesn't look like glad to be a trad. i thought glad to be a trad was more of a fingers splitter, kind of wavy and flake-y in lighter colored rock(?).