Phantasm
5.11b/c YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 4 from 40 votes
Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | JJ Schlick 2011 |
Page Views: | 5,389 total · 35/month |
Shared By: | JJ Schlick on Aug 13, 2011 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
Phantasm is one of the most unique lines I've ever established on basalt, and when I first laid eyes on the series of traverse holds, it was like a veil between dreams and reality was lifted. A geologic blessing from another time. I named it Phantasm both for its faintness and because I thought it might one day become a chopped out ghost route. It’s survived at least one selective chopping and was brought back from the light to haunt Volunteer Canyon once again. Maybe forever this time.
From the climbers left side of the drainage at a large half alive ponderosa which juts off the edge of the rim, rappel past knobby horns down 90' to an excellent belay ledge and a fixed belay.From the deluxe ledge, tackle the slightly overhanging dihedral with thuggy hand and finger pods (5.10). Take a moment at the break before the rail traverse, and eye it well. Once on the move again pop up to the jug, and then start moving past perfect jugs and textured smearing towards the steep thin crack.
Entering the thin crack and then getting into the hanging stem box is the crux of the route. This section is exciting, engaging, and ever so slightly enigmatic. After you plug some small gear and enter into the stem box be prepared for some intriguing and semi technical stemming for 30' of airy exposure in the shallow box. At the top of the box there is a good #.75 Camalot in a diagonal slot/handhold. One final tricky section exiting the top of the box to the right is followed by easier blocky climbing to the top.
The rock temperature may sway the grade a bit on this thing. Cold stone will make the traverse feel like an ice rink. Picture perfect conditions would be an ambient 70 degrees and climb it in the shade.
The direct start has been done at 5.12+ PG-13 if you are looking to up the ante.
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