Gutenberger Wall Rock Climbing
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Elevation: | 1,693 ft |
GPS: |
38.6484, -120.70573 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 37,595 total · 202/month |
Shared By: | Ryan Kosh on Dec 1, 2008 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
The big dome across the river from Buck's Bar Dome. A number of trad multi-pitch routes are available as well as some sport routes.
The area sees little activity as most people seem to spend their time top roping across the river.
Routes from climber's left/upstream/east to right/downstream/west:
1. East Approach
The Pioneer Route (historic first recorded technical climb in the gorge, uses its own approach apart from all newer routes, looks as green and untouched today as it no doubt did then)
2. Slippery Central Approach
2.A. River Level Routes
Iraqi Wall (single pitch bolted routes)
Scud Buster
Sadam. Me?
Tanks for the Memories
Got Gas?
Long Dong Arch
Iraqi Dihedral 5.10+
Dihedral Bypass
The Easy Way Up
Submarine Bunker
Slick Willy Wall
2.B. Grand Central Belay Station Routes (all start one pitch up at GCBS on the Central Upper Wall).
Grandma Buttons 5.8 R II (Branscomb & Vardanega, Feb 1978)
Grandpappy
Lichen Us
Gutenberger Wall Direct
River Daughter 5.8 R II
3. West Routes (all use the west approach)
3.A. River Level West Routes
Trout Fishing in America
Chicken Wire
3.B. West Upper Wall Routes
Grizzly Green 5.9 R II (Branscomb & Vardanega, Feb 1978)
Right Up the Line
Gutenberger's Wall
Gutenberger Edge
The area sees little activity as most people seem to spend their time top roping across the river.
Routes from climber's left/upstream/east to right/downstream/west:
1. East Approach
The Pioneer Route (historic first recorded technical climb in the gorge, uses its own approach apart from all newer routes, looks as green and untouched today as it no doubt did then)
2. Slippery Central Approach
2.A. River Level Routes
Iraqi Wall (single pitch bolted routes)
Scud Buster
Sadam. Me?
Tanks for the Memories
Got Gas?
Long Dong Arch
Iraqi Dihedral 5.10+
Dihedral Bypass
The Easy Way Up
Submarine Bunker
Slick Willy Wall
2.B. Grand Central Belay Station Routes (all start one pitch up at GCBS on the Central Upper Wall).
Grandma Buttons 5.8 R II (Branscomb & Vardanega, Feb 1978)
Grandpappy
Lichen Us
Gutenberger Wall Direct
River Daughter 5.8 R II
3. West Routes (all use the west approach)
3.A. River Level West Routes
Trout Fishing in America
Chicken Wire
3.B. West Upper Wall Routes
Grizzly Green 5.9 R II (Branscomb & Vardanega, Feb 1978)
Right Up the Line
Gutenberger's Wall
Gutenberger Edge
Getting There
There are two basic approaches to the Dome routes. Both can be impossible in high Spring runoff. You could be swept under the boulders and drowned. Use your head and don't die. One approach, mainly for Grizzly Green, Straight up the Line, and Gutenberger's Wall, is to cross the boulders at the west end of the swimming pool. Squirm up a strange little cleft and then class 3 up mossy slabs and some poison oak to a long ledge about half way up the dome. These routes are above this ledge.
The other way is to cross the slippery boulders at the base of the obvious central crack system. This is a little dicey in a couple of spots. At the base of the dihedral below the cracks, there are several options. Several 5.10ish ways up the dihedral with less than thrilling protection or take a low angle crack out and right until can cut back left to a shallow right facing corner, about 5.5-5.7. This leads to a bolted belay point with a lot of slings called the Grand Central Belay Station. All routes can be climbed to from here, usually by 5.4-5.6 low angle slabs, usually poorly protected.
Descent from the dome routes by several methods. You can rap down Gutenberger's Wall, Lichen Us, Straight Up the Line. All are bolted stations.
bob branscomb
The other way is to cross the slippery boulders at the base of the obvious central crack system. This is a little dicey in a couple of spots. At the base of the dihedral below the cracks, there are several options. Several 5.10ish ways up the dihedral with less than thrilling protection or take a low angle crack out and right until can cut back left to a shallow right facing corner, about 5.5-5.7. This leads to a bolted belay point with a lot of slings called the Grand Central Belay Station. All routes can be climbed to from here, usually by 5.4-5.6 low angle slabs, usually poorly protected.
Descent from the dome routes by several methods. You can rap down Gutenberger's Wall, Lichen Us, Straight Up the Line. All are bolted stations.
bob branscomb
Classic Climbing Routes at Gutenberger Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Sun & Shade
Routes Mostly Face: West · Northwest
Sunny Roughly 12pm to 6pm
during high season
6am
8pm
Weather Averages
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Precip
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Days w Precip
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Prime Climbing Season
J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
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