Type: | Trad, 210 ft (64 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Jack Turnage, Bill Forrest 1965 |
Page Views: | 1,717 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | clichtenberger Lichtenberger on Dec 8, 2011 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
P1- Climb 4th class following the path of least resistance up ramp to base of crack. Climb pass bolt (crux) into low angle crack. Continue up crack approximately 50 feet until able to clip a bolt on left side of crack. Use a two foot runner to reduce rope drag. Then climb out on face to the right of the crack using any protection possible. A new style #4 fits well in a large pocket on the face offering the most solid pro until able to reengage the crack (it is major runout!). Then use thin cams.3-.5 camalots and microcams in the crack and pull over bulge into the gully above. Careful not to dislodge any death rocks onto your belayer below. Set belay when able.
P2- Continue up gulley until end. Belay on palo verde.
Descent- Follow climbers trail to Pedrick's Chimney rappel.
P2- Continue up gulley until end. Belay on palo verde.
Descent- Follow climbers trail to Pedrick's Chimney rappel.
Location
This route is on the far west side of Gargoyle wall. It is the only crack that runs straight up the entire face. There is a single bolt that is placed at the beginning of the crack that is visible from the ground. It is aptly named after the active beehive that resides in the middle of the crack. THE BEEHIVE IS STILL ACTIVE. So make sure that instead of staying in the crack that you climb out on the right face. The protection is as good as the rock it is being placed.
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