By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Dec 2, 2011
oh ok, sorry to botch your line... i guess ill leave this up with your comment to guide people... the line i drew here is quite fun at about the same grade and leads up to your piton about 80ft up or so... 2 of the bolts on Gifts from Attu are on (or near) the start of what you describe, then it breaks left up steeper stuff... i think you will like the line i have drawn in here...
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Dec 4, 2011
sure, ill come up with a name for it and describe it properly, then i guess i can move the photo over to that description with a new name on it.
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England May 7, 2012
...or change the title to Heel!
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh May 7, 2012
i can just pull the picture... i figured the very few people who might do these routes would just read our discussion and get the idea...
Old Yeller is a excellent book. To do this route trad without the bolts with freezing fingers you might understand why the name. If you didn't like Old Yeller M. Sprague. I have suggested readings by Jack London: Into the wild and White Fang. I don't request that your routes have name changes M. Sprague. Not my position to do so. 'Heel' appears to have derogatory implications to my behavior. Especially after multiple derogatory posts by M. Sprague during spring and summer first ascents I have done. A climbing committee to decide new routes? I best get finished before there is one. If a committee is formed I'll be an outlaw. I was in the 80's when Rattlesnake crags were on private property. Ha Ha NK
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Aug 24, 2012
Bradley, you are going off again, turning everything into a feud. Your misunderstanding and extreme touchiness makes a lot of unfortunate negativity. The name suggestion was a light hearted one for Lee's line, and, by the way, I never said I thoughtOld Yeller was not good, the book or the line. As far as climbing committees go, yeah, I don't like the idea either, but if something is really getting out of hand, then I think occasionally it is a better way to deal with conflicting ideas than unilateral destructive action. When an area gets super popular and routes have gotten pretty well filled in, the need, along with rules becomes more necessary, unfortunately. That is one of the reasons I spend more time at the outback crags these days.
To have reference to Lee's 'Lone Wolf' M. Sprague posted the comment on the wrong climb. I have a very long reputation of being adamant towards my ascents. I am not feuding with M. Sprague. What's happening is my perspective to climbing is relating to his comments being off topic postings. Do the routes and then comment seriously. It is the only way to validate anyone's comment. Otherwise the comments are coming from the spectator's speculating. Mark on a personal note I appreciate very much you bringing up the shit smearing saga. Mark, you were very supportive of my free solo's on Huntington Mt. 'On Black Flies and Deer Ticks' when the ledge you didn't know about, you learned of, you were able to correct the comment. Passionate about my climbing is an understatement. To comment 'take away his drill' and they don't know what they are doing, in how to do routes is insulting and ridiculous. Its your right to live to your ethical standards. Not your right to impose them on mine. Nor will any committee. That is just the way climbing is and I'll do routes by moonlight if need be. This is not Kattadin Mt. in Maine. My routes do not interfere with other climbers. Back Crack is about as obscure as climbs get here. Its a decent climb and has not been disturbed, definitely safer and possibly through our intense discussions it will get some traffic. I didn't hold M.P. hostage. I got insistent on removing my comments from all the adversity sitcom nonsense I read about and responded too and went across with the delete key with no arbitration. I would have removed all of them but I missed a few. I accepted other climbers need or want for many of my comments returned and thankfully through Jeffery Lecour's excellent editing of his collection of my comments they have been returned. Mike Robinson who was there but not a participant to what happened at Greens Ledge, took my name apart to Be rad. That is an accurate description to my climbing ethics and lifestyle. The one crag I would like to have climbed on is in Vermont near Lyme Hew Hampshire border on interstate 91. I did talk to the Vermont Highway patrol about access. Caught on that 400ft ledge is guaranteed jail time. Vermont is very fussy about there cliffs and ledges (worst than N.C.). The Hohe has ice and this is an area we intend on leaving crampon marks. Cathedral ledge has lots of these marks and so does Cannon. It is a big deal at Rumney not to remove crimps. The Hohe does not rely on crimps as much being important. The name 'Know Ethics' is a misnomer the word is 'No'. I have no ethics to doing first ascents. Chris Hassig told me of his direct intended start to 'Iron Man' he would ascend when he got back from Peru (He died there). It was my wall and I was going to get up 'Know Ethics' first and so I did cussing and yelling at Tom Armstrong all the way. On the lead I fell twice off the ramp before I got the piton nest to work at the crux. Then a pendulum right away from the crux to a 5.10 mantle and a long narrow traverse up to the belay. Tom went the normal way clean. I am not bothering with it but I led 'Polly Pure Bred' on trad in 1987 with Lee the Flee. I did the first ascent of the 'Thang' now 'Thing' I believe with Ted Hammond leading it on aid and I followed on aid. Later that year it was freed by Ted. 'Darth Vader' is my first ascent with Lee the Flee. I compiled all these facts for Ward Smith's Rumney guide and he still wrote the facts wrong. There are 30ft short routes I climbed at Rattlesnake that I have forgotten or didn't mention I did them because 30ft is boulder height and not worth mentioning under V1 consequently Darth Vader is in that Category. Lee and I did the first Ascent of 'No Money Down' 1987. We considered it not finished because we were unable to get off the rock through the grasses and whipped out of it multiple times. I don't believe in scrubbing a route to change the star rating of a climb. It gets more stars by me in its natural form. So I have bent my own rating system to comply with sport climber's ethics to good and poor quality. They for the most part have a different program they climb with than I. Many of the great and classic sport climbs weren't don't because of lichen, moss and being sandy in the 1980's. To dirty to ascend ground up. I demand perfection while being belayed because without I'll be injured. Rumney climbs were and have been an practice area for me. That's why Moxie's start was bolted. I'll cuss the partner abusively for slack or take not done immediately. Tom Bowker said. "my sharp end climbing would scare him to death but he was never afraid of me dying". I have mellowed how a little to the cussing. I am glad our discussion is on this obscure climbs photo. There is an old camp saying, 'Get with the program'. That is all I request from you. I am unable to be where I want to be because of pelvic arthritis or I would be in my sandbox, Cannon Cliff. I intend on doing long traverse routes on the crags worst than Moxie. These long inclining traverses will go across multiple routes. I would prefer not to bolt them because there would be confusion from the bolts. I will utilize bolts already placed. These long traverse routes exist on Cathedral and Cannon and complimentary comments were received to the first ascent climbers. Mark you call me any F56king name you want. I won't be offended. Write that I don't know what I am doing. What the F78k, I have done about 160 FA's and I don't keep track of FFA's. I would have died climbing long ago, not knowing what I am doing. Still here to do more. September I will return to finish up some stuff and add a very long sport/trad new route. American native Indians claim I have local or Canadian Indian lineage. I like to think it is Heron. Might explain my war path comments. I am burying the Tomahawk and the musket. Don't want a feud or a war or a fight. I have earned positive feedback and have received little to none this year. The first two guide books on Rumney omitted my contributions. I am not a member of the local guide book club. Its regular behavior to omit a participant such as I. I don't promote myself and in four guides books published with my routes not one photo of me. I joined M.P. to get the facts corrected and lots of photos. Not to exchange off topic comments. Do I have a superiority complex? maybe and so what. I love to do tick for tack. Anything I wrote I would have said directly towards anyone face to face. The offer still stands, I am available to climb with if your interested.