|By Brian in SLC|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 1, 2011
I've been in planning meetings with the BLM with regard to the Castle Rocks. They did allow climbing on their little parcel. I have a gob of routes there (so does Brad, etc).
The total climbing ban is a fairly recent development due to cultural resource concerns.
A few of the affected formations are: Tidal Wave Wall, Chamber of Secrets, Blarney Stone, Sorcerer's Stone, Pole Cat, RC Rock, Jug Wall, Smoking Room, Gobstopper, The Kingdom, Wall o' Plenty, Celtic Cross, Stone Circle, Outpost Spire, The Courtyard, Mango Tower, and I think it nicks the south side of the Foil Chimney. I think Teaser Tower might be on BLM land too. Etc.
The BLM parcel doesn't really "surround" the state park. It's a small parcel, but, with a ton of rock and a lot of climbing routes (maybe unfortunate its been a bit off the radar). The Forest Service land does kinda surround the back end of the park.
Hard to enforce (to say the least) and really nonsensical. It's a low traffic area to begin with, too far a walk for most folks.