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Help Save Climbing at Massacre and Castle Rocks, ID

Submitted By: Frances Fierst on Nov 25, 2011


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Idaho’s Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Burley Field Office is proposing a climbing ban at Massacre Rocks, and making permanent its current climbing ban at Castle Rocks, due to fears that climbing could potentially have negative impacts on cultural resources at each location. The Access Fund (AF) has a long history of climbing advocacy in the area and is working with the Boise Climbers Alliance (BCA), the newly-formed Eastern Idaho Climbers Coalition (EICC), members of Idaho’s Congressional Delegation, the local BLM, and other concerned stakeholders to find a reasonable compromise that allows climbing and protects valuable culture resources.

The AF is drafting a joint comment letter with the BCA and EICC that will provide specific suggestions to accommodate climbing and protect sensitive cultural resources. Members of Idaho’s Congressional Delegation, Idaho State and County Officials, and local civic leaders are encouraging the BLM to consider an option that permits climbing. The AF is offering climbing management expertise, funding for research/monitoring, and volunteer stewardship support. Due to our efforts it the BLM may now consider a climbing alternative in this management proposal, but we need your help to make that a reality!

Please use the letter writing tool below to show the BLM that climbing and cultural resource protection are compatible and that climbers are good stewards and care about protecting cultural resources. December 16, 2011 is the comment deadline. For more information e-mail rd@accessfund.org.

www.accessfund.org/c.tmL5KhNWLrH/b.5208267/k.8C84/Action_Cen>>>

The Access Fund


Comments on Help Save Climbing at Massacre and Castle Rocks, ID Add Comment
By Brian in SLC
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 1, 2011

I've been in planning meetings with the BLM with regard to the Castle Rocks. They did allow climbing on their little parcel. I have a gob of routes there (so does Brad, etc).

The total climbing ban is a fairly recent development due to cultural resource concerns.

A few of the affected formations are: Tidal Wave Wall, Chamber of Secrets, Blarney Stone, Sorcerer's Stone, Pole Cat, RC Rock, Jug Wall, Smoking Room, Gobstopper, The Kingdom, Wall o' Plenty, Celtic Cross, Stone Circle, Outpost Spire, The Courtyard, Mango Tower, and I think it nicks the south side of the Foil Chimney. I think Teaser Tower might be on BLM land too. Etc.

The BLM parcel doesn't really "surround" the state park. It's a small parcel, but, with a ton of rock and a lot of climbing routes (maybe unfortunate its been a bit off the radar). The Forest Service land does kinda surround the back end of the park.

Hard to enforce (to say the least) and really nonsensical. It's a low traffic area to begin with, too far a walk for most folks.