cochise - peacemaker or too tough to die

So I only have time for one (quick stop on the way to Red Rocks). Just a survey - The Peacemaker or The Climb Too Tough to Die? They seem to be similar in grade etc...

I would recommend 'Absinthe of Mallet' followed by 'Unknown (Left of Peacemaker)'. You can't really go wrong with any route on Sheepshead though. Some just have a bit more variety than others.

sheep rock for sure... peacemaker, unnammed left of peacemaker

I second the Absinthe rec, I think it's better and more varied than Peacemaker or TTTD. The route just left of Ewephoria is also really good, but a bit harder with some 10/10+ moves protected by gear.

I third absinthe. It is better, more sustained climbing than other two. Most of the routes are great though. Peacemaker and too tough could probably be climbed faster and are also great fun. Only have one day? Hell, huck it up there and do all three!

Route right of Stampede.

I'd suggest staying at Cochise instead of scampering off to Red Rocks. But maybe that's just me liking better rock quality, less crowds, and less bureaucracy.

Absinthe is starting to sound good. I would just stay in Cochise, but I'm working my way north home to Idaho after a blissful month of bouldering in Texas, and I have a partner lined up for a day in Cochise and for a couple days in Vegas. Maybe we'll try to do Absinthe, and a couple of the other routes you guys have recommended. Thanks!

You can do two routes on sheepshead in a day. I really liked mad Cow disease, which is also referred to as "unknown.". Not sure if it's the same one people are talking about above. Stampede also rocks.

Or you could go into the stronghold proper and do warpaint or something at the rock fellow domes.

You are crazy for only climbing there for a day. I've driven past red rocks twice to climb at Cochise.

Edit to add that I didn't do a good job of recommending routes comparable to the two you mentioned (haven't done 'em). But I still think you are crazy for not staying longer.

John Wilder wrote:Ugh, avoid Peacemaker- the climbing is okay, but the bolting is atrocious. I've never seen an 800' (or whatever it is) plumb line bolting job before and I hope I never see one again...especially when the climbing doesn't follow the bolts at all. I've heard Absinthe is good- I'd like to go back and check that one out. Enjoy the setting, though- its gorgeous down there.

Why would you dislike something that nigh eliminates rope drag? There were no bolts on Peacemaker that I thought were unduly hard or sketchy to clip. I never strayed far enough to either side to have issues getting back over to clip.

@ the OP: I've only done Peacemaker and Ewephoria on the Sheepshead, but both of them were spectacular in my eyes. Pretty much anything you climb on the Sheepshead is going to be of quality. But don't go after a crazy winter storm like we did last new years, the dome was unclimbable for a couple days and we ended up not being able to do anything.

If you want some exciting slab go for Peacemaker, but I would second John on the route left of Peacemaker. That route has little bit of everything from offwidth, cracks, and slab. But whatever, you decide to do at Sheephead it is good. By the way, I also will be going to RedRocks this week, so we kind of doing the same thing. Have Fun!

You guys have talked us into it - we're going to spend an extra day in Cochise. In a perfect world we'd like to try to do Absinthe, Peacemaker and Ewephoria (TTTD finish) on day one, and Moby Dick early on our second day before we drive to Vegas. Is this realistic? We're both solid mid-10 trad climbers and we, (well mostly I) REALLY like slabs. I'd love to do Warpaint the second day (that weird slab-lust again), but we absolutely need to be in Vegas Friday night, and Moby seems fast and classic.

Good choices, but if you're going out to Whale Dome, Dem Bones is a way better route than Moby Dick. The South Face is also quality.

Doing three routes in a day on sheepshead is a good, full day. Start early. Peacemaker and ewephoria will probably go pretty quick. Peacemaker will be in the sun first so a good start. It is mostly bolts but I remember being grateful for a #1 and a .4. Take two ropes and rap the route. Then you're at the base again and near absinthe. Absinthe is much more sustained and trickier than peacemaker so it might take longer. You need a rack for Absinthe and only one rope. If you like slab, try and get the next to last pitch. Descend via the trail and you come out at Ewephoria. It is easier than the other two routes and pretty straightforward. Wouldn't be too bad if you had to finish at dusk or by headlamp. Enjoy the sunset on top of the sheepshead. Awesome day! Sorry for the whole spray but climbing at Cochise just gets me excited.

If you really want to spend the time on hiking somewhere, check out the rockfellow group. Some of the coolest rock formations and routes. Check out endgame on end pinnacle.

Paddy McIlvoy wrote:So I only have time for one (quick stop on the way to Red Rocks). Just a survey - The Peacemaker or The Climb Too Tough to Die? They seem to be similar in grade etc...

I Have climbed both Absinth, and the unknown right of stampede, and i would say do unknown. Absinth was said to be a great "classic" route, but enjoyed many other routes more.

I'll add to the rapidly accumulating spray by seconding Dan's last post. In fact, skip Sheepshead entirely. You've never been to Cochise and who knows when you'll be back, and you have a day, maybe day and a half. GO TO THE ROCKFELLOWS. Seriously.

Sheepshead is really, really cool. Great climbing. But the Rockfellows are...otherworldy. Mysterious. Astonishingly beautiful. One of the few areas I've been to around the country that really stands out as unique. And the climbing is fantastic: Endgame, Abracadaver, Days of Future Passed, Interiors, etc...just exploring around there would be a great day.

Also, there's no shortage of options the second day for a great morning of climbing: one and two pitch routes with short approaches like Nightstalker and Beeline.

If your are going out to the cochise trail area to do Moby Dick. I would recommend then to do Crackaholic Dreams is at Squaretop Dome. The hike is longer but the climb for me is 10 times worth it than anything on Whale Dome. But again, just take a pick and you will have a great time anywhere in this splendid place.