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2011 Utah Ice Conditions thread

Michael Davidson · · North Bend, WA · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 141
Kyle Gochenour wrote:Thanks everyone for all the Stairway to Heaven beta. It was a great climb today on the Apron. Ice was in a little more than Michaels pictures from earlier this week. There was another group up there too, not sure if they were anyone here, but they mentioned Mountain Project. I was really impressed with the climb, the ice was nice and sticky and you didnt get too wet. But it was really flowing in spots. There was a lot more rockfall than I would have liked but I guess that comes with the territory. Its going to be a great winter for sure!
Hey Kyle, that was us. I was the one snapping photos and chatting with Asher (that right?) when you guys were hiking up.

Since I was so stoaked to have ice again, that was my third time up this week. Hopefully this weather will help get some of the upper pitches established.
Michael Davidson · · North Bend, WA · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 141
Matt Jesperson wrote:Robert's Horn ice, 11/10/11. Still thin for our taste, but getting there. Climbed around on the large moat.
Thanks for the photos, Matt. Were your photos taken at the prominent line of ice that you can see in the middle of your first photo of the face?
zoso · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 790

Drove back from Moab last night and...

wait for it...

The Dirtsicle is in!!!

dante kleinman · · Denali National Park, AK · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 15

Now when you say the dirtsicle is in... how in is it? Photos?

Nathaniel Holt · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 130

What is the horn looking like this week? Those were some sweet pics from Matt Jasperson. Id be willing to go try it out if someone wants to go with me (Michael Davidson). But for real safe enough to climb up back side of timp? any route?

Cheers to the sub-zero temps we love so much :)

Mike Washburn · · Orem, Utah · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 30

Has anyone been up to the apron or seen it from the highway yesterday or this morning?

jtwalter · · Orem, UT · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 806
Mike Washburn wrote:Has anyone been up to the apron or seen it from the highway yesterday or this morning?
I drive past it every morning and it looked mostly melted out this today. From the highway it looked like there was some ice but it was really thin and mostly wet.
Mike Washburn · · Orem, Utah · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 30

lame, maybe after this weekends event...

Matt Jesperson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 140
Michael Davidson wrote: Thanks for the photos, Matt. Were your photos taken at the prominent line of ice that you can see in the middle of your first photo of the face?
Yep.
Kyle Gochenour · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 0

What other routes, when they are in, can be top-roped, or is just Stairway?

And hopefully this weekends event brings more stuff in :-)

Michael Davidson · · North Bend, WA · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 141

Any ice on the Apron which was once there, is now gone. Better to just go skiing.

Eli Harry · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 75

With that negative attitude Mike the ice will feel unwelcome and never come back!!

M L · · Sonora, CA · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 165

anyone wanna go slop up to roberts horn this tuesday? weather looks good, skiing looks shit

at the very least: take the tools for a pretty walk - get some exercise, at the very best: glory.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,711
layton wrote:anyone wanna go slop up to roberts horn this tuesday?
I'd be careful with this warm weather. Rain today and a pretty good warm up tomorrow. Not so good for ice conditions.
M L · · Sonora, CA · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 165
Brian in SLC wrote: I'd be careful with this warm weather. Rain today and a pretty good warm up tomorrow. Not so good for ice conditions.
Probably not...but ice forms slower than it melts, and that location is a cold air sink. Better than sitting around with my thumb up my butt.
Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,711
layton wrote:Better than sitting around with my thumb up my butt.
I dunno. Better your thumb than your head...

Ha ha.

Take care. I can think of some pretty serious ice accidents that occurred during times of rapid temperature change.

If you go for a look, let us know!

Thanks.
M L · · Sonora, CA · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 165
Brian in SLC wrote: I dunno. Better your thumb than your head... Ha ha. Take care. I can think of some pretty serious ice accidents that occurred during times of rapid temperature change. If you go for a look, let us know! Thanks.
Will do, but I'm not going alone. Anyone got tomorrow off, wanna take the tools for a stroll?
M L · · Sonora, CA · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 165
layton wrote: Will do, but I'm not going alone. Anyone got tomorrow off, wanna take the tools for a stroll?
too warm!

I'm getting flashbacks of living in seattle trying to get those perfect conditions. Nov usually provides a hard freeze pre-dump. Not this year, twas October.

too bad, lots of possibilities early - smears up the LCC, Roberts, that thing in Odgen.

Next perfect condition OCD objective probably will have to wait like storm mtn, habeus corpus, etc.
dante kleinman · · Denali National Park, AK · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 15

Dirtcicle is back in, top roped it today for a few hours. Temps never got hot enough to bake it out, it was in lead-able conditions for the strong willed.

dante kleinman · · Denali National Park, AK · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 15

Looking for a climbing partner for the weekend, any or all days, friday - sunday. Im game for anything from toproping to leading some multipitch if we can find something thats in halfway decent.

Dante

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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