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Olga Mirkina starting up a TR run of "Fat and Happy" a steep 12b/c sport route on the main wall of Durrell Mountain (aka Whiteface). Durrell Mountain is  a somewhat unknown area in Gilmanton, NH, kind of like a small version of Rumney, being a bunch of one pitch crags on a hillside with similar rock. Todd Swain is working on a guide that includes the area which should be out soon.
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By joshua corbett
From: Wolfeboro NH
Nov 9, 2011

Hay Mark whats the access like for this place, last time i was there it was all posted and some hillbillies were there shoting shotguns so it kinda turned me off.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Nov 9, 2011

It is definitely a hillbilly area. Last time I was in there was 2 years ago and where we went in there were no signs. Somebody was shooting when we came out though, so we circled around keeping a rise of the hill between us and moved quickly. I wasn't sure if where he was was his land and he would be an irate owner, so I didn't want to call out to him. I was with a bunch of Russian friends, so figured he might think we were commies and blast away. I am pretty sure it is all right to climb there, just not exactly sure of boundaries to private land next to the road. I think if you are discrete and walk in where there are no signs and be quite and wear a cloaking device, you should be all right. Hopefully Todd has that all figured out. Locals like Brady Libby might be able to tell you more.

Brady told me that once when he was out there local goons came riding up on ATVs all drunk out of their minds and started scrambling around on an outcropping. One proceeded to fall off and face plant on a stump. Blood and teeth were everywhere, but he managed to get himself out of there. It's a fun place!

By JeffP
Nov 9, 2011

Mark, what is the route that starts in the corner in the foreground and follows eyebolts past a face, into a corner, through a roof and finishes on a steep face? i climbed a handful of routes here last summer and thought that one was exceptional, maybe 10+ and among the best sport routes i have done of the grade.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Nov 9, 2011

There is an 11c? called Swinging Mad (FA Brady Libby) just right of Olga and then a 10c just right of that, where the edge of the photo is. I don't know what it ended up being called, but it is a Dave Quinn route. Brady's route Macho Nacho (further to the left, past the 12s) might be the 10+ you were referring to, though I think we called it an 11- at the time. I have a ten to the left of that that I can't remember what I named. This wall has a few great routes, though last time there, the poison ivy had grown back along the base, so needed a respraying.

By JeffP
Nov 9, 2011

the start of the route i am talking about is clearly visible in this photo, it is the gray, right facing corner to the climber's right. When you finish you lower off about 10-12 feet behind your belayer, very cool. and yes, the poison ivy was BAD at the base

By Glenn Cilley
From: Laconia, NH
Nov 9, 2011

the land is private and the owner doesn't want any climbers there

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Nov 9, 2011

Are you absolutely certain, Glenn, and that is not just an ornery landowner by the road that people may cross over shortcutting to get to the crag? There seemed to be very established hiking trails up the hillside. My impression from Brady was that where the crags are is kosher. Below them is actively logged and at least a good part running along the road seemed private. It seems like it might be good for somebody local to have a check in the town hall. I've dealt with a number of people who claimed to own land when they didn't, even a guy who claimed land that in fact my mother owned.

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Olga Mirkina starting up a TR run of "Fat and Happy" a steep 12b/c sport route on the main wall of Durrell Mountain (aka Whiteface). Durrell Mountain is a somewhat unknown area in Gilmanton, NH, kind of like a small version of Rumney, being a bunch of one pitch crags on a hillside with similar rock. Todd Swain is working on a guide that includes the area which should be out soon.

Submitted By: M Sprague on Nov 9, 2011
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