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Five Ten Newton?

Original Post
ssimonson09 · · Portland, OR · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 5

So I've been using the Five Ten pitons for a while, and after I got them resoled the most recent time they just feel "off" like they're not quite right. I'll be fine using them for the rest of the fall and winter, but come Spring I'd like to get something new. Since the Pitons are no longer made I've been looking at Five Ten's website and saw the Newtons, but can't really find any reviews for them.

Anyone have any reviews on these? Or possibly the Five Ten Huecos? I've tried the Grandstones, but really don't like the dead space in the toe box, and before anyone mentions La Sportiva, my feet are way to wide for any of them.

I'll be using these shoes mainly for trad climbing along the front range, basically everywhere from Vedauwoo to Boulder to alpine rock stuff up in the park and the South Platte if I can ever get down there. So they'll be used mainly for slabs and cracks. I've got Galileos for sport climbing and bouldering.

Chad Wagner · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 75

The Newtons are actually an old design that they brought back. This shoe is extremely stiff. Long routes and all day fun. They are almost an approach shoe haha. They worked great for me and made edging all day quite comfortable. The lace design rocks, it just conforms to your foot. My only complaint is the way they smelled. The worst shoe I've ever owned in the stinch department, but I think they are using a different material these days. All and all a good all around shoe.

Copperhead · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 0

I just bought some huecos online, but they weren't the right size so I sent them back. They have a stiff sole and probably edge pretty well. The upper was really thin, though, so I wasn't sure about that since I wanted more protection from cracks. I decided against getting the correct size and went with the tc pro. You should try it on at the least. The forefoot is pretty roomy, although I am not yet sure about the xs edge rubber.

They have the newton at rei, so you can check them out. Seem similar to the hueco, but with synthetic uppers.

ssimonson09 · · Portland, OR · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 5
Copperhead wrote:I just bought some huecos online, but they weren't the right size so I sent them back. They have a stiff sole and probably edge pretty well. The upper was really thin, though, so I wasn't sure about that since I wanted more protection from cracks. I decided against getting the correct size and went with the tc pro. You should try it on at the least. The forefoot is pretty roomy, although I am not yet sure about the xs edge rubber. They have the newton at rei, so you can check them out. Seem similar to the hueco, but with synthetic uppers.
Like I said in the original post, nothing Sportiva fits me, trust me I've tried 'em, they just don't fit my feet.
Sam Feuerborn · · Carbondale · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 810

I would highly recommend the copperheads if you're doing a lot of those cracks in the s. platte, the laces are a huge plus over the mocs in my opinion.

JFK · · San Diego, CA · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 5

If you have little girl sized feet, i have a pair of essentially brand new newtons for you in a size 6.5

ssimonson09 · · Portland, OR · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 5

Sadly no, I tried them on at REI yesterday, and I'm either a 9 or a 9.5. That being said, anyone know how much these stretch or have an suggestions on the sizing? the 9 had my toes curled up a bit, but was kinda tight, the 9.5 had my toes a little more flat, but still curled just a tiny bit.

Will S · · Joshua Tree · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,061

The Newton is the stiffest shoe Five-Ten makes. They are also quite comfy, aside from the support from being stiff, the upper just feels cushy. For hand and larger cracks and edging on small stuff, they're great. They edge WAY better than the Hueco, which is a more of a comfy all-day, below your limit kind of cruiser shoe.

The toe profile is more rounded than the anasazi lasted shoes so it can feel less precise for certain kinds of climbing.

I found that my newtons stretched less than any of my other shoes. More molding into shape really, than stretching...something akin to what you got from the old pink anasazis if you ever wore those. I'd fit them with as close to flat toes as you can get since their wheelhouse is a mix of hand to fist + edging.

These have a place in the quiver, but you probably won't be reaching for these for tight hands or smaller sized cracks. Even with flat toes and a flat last, the toe is fairly thick compared to a moc.

ssimonson09 · · Portland, OR · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 5
Will S wrote:The Newton is the stiffest shoe Five-Ten makes. They are also quite comfy, aside from the support from being stiff, the upper just feels cushy. For hand and larger cracks and edging on small stuff, they're great. They edge WAY better than the Hueco, which is a more of a comfy all-day, below your limit kind of cruiser shoe. The toe profile is more rounded than the anasazi lasted shoes so it can feel less precise for certain kinds of climbing. I found that my newtons stretched less than any of my other shoes. More molding into shape really, than stretching...something akin to what you got from the old pink anasazis if you ever wore those. I'd fit them with as close to flat toes as you can get since their wheelhouse is a mix of hand to fist + edging. These have a place in the quiver, but you probably won't be reaching for these for tight hands or smaller sized cracks. Even with flat toes and a flat last, the toe is fairly thick compared to a moc.
Yea, that's kind of what I noticed about them when I looked at them at REI. I think I'll probably get a pair of these for hand+fist stuff and slabs/edging at Vedauwoo, Lumpy, Boulder/St. Vrain Canyon, and Eldo. I'll have pick up a pair of mocs for the smaller stuff. My pitons used to be good for the smaller stuff, but when I got them back from resoling the toebox came out to rounded.
Kevin Fox · · parker · Joined Apr 2003 · Points: 970

just keep running the galileos for everything. if they fit your feet go with it.my climbing partner wyatt uses them for everything. south platte dome climbing, desert towers, eldo. to voo offwidth horror shows. the shoe does everything well, slab. edging, crack climbing. go with it! fuck looking for a new shoe.I wish they fit my foot.

ssimonson09 · · Portland, OR · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 5
kevin fox wrote:just keep running the galileos for everything. if they fit your feet go with it.my climbing partner wyatt uses them for everything. south platte dome climbing, desert towers, eldo. to voo offwidth horror shows. the shoe does everything well, slab. edging, crack climbing. go with it! fuck looking for a new shoe.I wish they fit my foot.
How does he size them? I found for me if I sized them big enough to be comfortable (toes flat) they weren't really good for sport climbing. While if I sized them tighter (toes curled a bit) they perform great for sport routes but hurt like hell to jam in. Not to mention the galileo upper isn't to thick, so I'd think that it would get shredded long before the rubber wore out.

ps, capitalization?
Chris Owen · · Big Bear Lake · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 11,617

I've had an old pair of Newtons in my closet for what? 10 years? And I only wore them once to JTree. Size 44.

Martin Harris · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 200

I can't wear anything from 5.10 but sportivas always fit me well. I know they r not cheap but tc pro's sized very comfy edge well enough for me to stand on nothings and then right after stuff my toe into a crack followed by smearing as well as any other shoe I have climbed with.
And if your foot pops in an OW u don't bash your ankle. Best trad/crack shoe ever and can still climb at my limit sport.

Clayton Jensen · · Boulder, CO · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 30

I have a pair of newton's, these things rock in the cracks and all day climbing but I feel like they severely lack on the steep small edges. The sole is very thick which is nice for all day but you loose all the sensitivity. Granted I went for comfort with these shoes rather than cramming my feet in them but there is probably a more versatile trad/all day shoe out there. I would consider these a crack climbing shoe, scary on the small edges you find in eldo.

1Eric Rhicard · · Tucson · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 10,101

Did some of the hardest slightly overhanging thin edge climbing of my life in these. Not very sensitive but once you get used to that you will be amazed how thin an edge you can use.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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