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> Jewel of the Nile Wall
Pearly Burly Brooke
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.4 from 20
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Routes in Jewel of the Nile Wall
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Country Mile T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Family Jewels T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pearly Burly Brooke T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Morkel, 2005? |
| Page Views: | 3,258 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | 1rsties4life Carnes on Sep 12, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
First let me start by saying that I can't possibly claim the first ascent of this incredible splitter; however, I can claim that it is, "an incredible splitter!" This is the center crack in the face just left of the large, laser cut roof at the bottom of the cliff.
P1. Start with some hard to protect moves getting into the crack, then climb straight up with mostly hands for almost 200'. It ends with an angling hand traverse right to a good stance.
P2. Continue up the crack up with some 5.9 boulder problems for another 50'-60' and belay.
When rapping back down, we found evidence of some purple webbing at the top of the dihedral on the right side of the cliff, indicating that it had been climbed before.
P1. Start with some hard to protect moves getting into the crack, then climb straight up with mostly hands for almost 200'. It ends with an angling hand traverse right to a good stance.
P2. Continue up the crack up with some 5.9 boulder problems for another 50'-60' and belay.
When rapping back down, we found evidence of some purple webbing at the top of the dihedral on the right side of the cliff, indicating that it had been climbed before.
Location
We lowered off of slings that I hope to replace with a bolted anchor soon, in an effort to keep the area clean of tat. Two 70 meter ropes will guarantee safe access to the ground.
Mic W: added a two bolt anchor with lowering links for Pearly Burley and Country Mile. This anchor is 40 meters off the ground. One can lower their climber with an 80 meter rope.
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