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A fun variation to The Good, the Bad & the Ugly is to climb the first 6 bolts of that route and then veer right upon reaching the overhang.  It is possible to follow a right-arching hand crack up to the top of the wall.   <br /> <br />The crux of this variation involves delicate smearing with a cam below your feet.  Carry two pieces in the 1/2" to 1" range.  Rappel from bolts.
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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Sep 25, 2011
I first became aware of this cool variation to The Good, the Bad & the Ugly when a climbing partner of mine got desperate while trying to lead that route. As mentioned elsewhere, the 7th clip on the route can be very challenging to make. My partner had a cam in the crack and was frantically trying to find a comfortable position from which to make the 7th clip. Fighting the pump, he gave up entirely on the 7th bolt and ran out the crack up to the top of the wall.

When I returned and decided to climb this variation on purpose, I carried an extra small cam which made the route feel very reasonably protected.
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A fun variation to The Good, the Bad & the Ugly is to climb the first 6 bolts of that route and then veer right upon reaching the overhang. It is possible to follow a right-arching hand crack up to the top of the wall.

The crux of this variation involves delicate smearing with a cam below your feet. Carry two pieces in the 1/2" to 1" range. Rappel from bolts.

Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Sep 25, 2011
On this route:
The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a )
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