Best way to protect a particular climb?
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I am working on puting some stuff up on a little rock outcroping that is like 5 min from my house. I dont think annyone else really climbs here yet. |
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Bolting it is pointless; you can 'deck' w/ each clip, no matter how close. 5-10 feet is not particularly high for a boulder problem. Have a spotter follow you up with the intent of keeping you from bouncing down the hill. |
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The issue with that is the slab under 2ed half is actually like 5.3 climbing in and of itself so spotting someone would be hard and falls onto that slab would = broken ankles. Maybe it is just not posable to protect. |
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Place a bolt halfway up, stick clip it, climb away. |
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TR |
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boulder it. use the crack in the middle of the image as protection for the spotter. leave them on a fixed line and a grigri so they can adjust accordingly. do not bolt it. or just climb it at an R/X rating. you could also try and find natural pro to keep you from tumbling to far down the hill. |
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Ian Cavanaugh wrote:. you could also try and find natural pro to keep you from tumbling to far down the hill.But what if he just has bolts!? |
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it looks like there are plenty of options for natural pro |
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Bolts are not the answer they only give you cancer. |
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Looks there are a couple of spots that could take nuts. Or you could just boulder it and not fall. |
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berl wrote:just sling this cactusPost of the month? Slow clap. |
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so the "natural pro" spot circled in red is actually a compleatly loose mess that would get cleaned off IF i were to try to do this line but I think I am leaning towards passing on it. |
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Or as someone suggested setting it up with a TR anchor on each end and belaying with 2 ropes. |
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Set up a rope fixed at both ends diagonally up the bit you want to climb and use any of the normal top-rope soloing methods (Shunt, Ascender or whatever). |
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NickMartel wrote:so the "natural pro" spot circled in red is actually a compleatly loose mess that would get cleaned off IF i were to try to do this line but I think I am leaning towards passing on it.So you're saying the cactus isn't bomber? Definetely don't bolt this... |
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Just but bolts every three feet or so.....that should do it. |
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Don't waste bolts in the Tucson Mountains. |
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Larry wrote:Don't waste bolts in the Tucson Mountains.An excellent point. |