Type: |
Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
Fixed Hardware
(12) |
FA: | Darren Mabe, 2009 |
Page Views: | 11,839 total · 70/month |
Shared By: | Wiled Horse on Jun 29, 2010 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Description
EDIT: Double Stout is now logically split into two separate routes, the first pitch to the no hands rest under the roof, and the entire line extended over the roof.
Technical and insecure steep slab and face climbing. Start with the first few clips over a small roof of Black and Tan, and continue straight up the golden brown face. The sustained crux lasts for several more clips (preferably pre-hung). Stopping short at the anchor of Casual Gods below the roof offers an excellent 5.13- tick in itself.
Technical and insecure steep slab and face climbing. Start with the first few clips over a small roof of Black and Tan, and continue straight up the golden brown face. The sustained crux lasts for several more clips (preferably pre-hung). Stopping short at the anchor of Casual Gods below the roof offers an excellent 5.13- tick in itself.
Location
Continue past Reefer Madness along the exposed ledges on the far right side of Wall of the '90s. This is the route left of Black and Tan. It starts with the first three clips of B & T and continues straight up and left. The route stays dry in the rain. If it is raining, the first bolt of B&T can provide a convenient belay bolt.
Nuts and Bolts
8 or 9 clips get you to the anchors under the roof at about 75'. Another half dozen or so continues with the extension to the top. A few long draws at some choice spots will help with hard clips and rope-drag when running the route in its entirety.
A 70m rope is a must for the extension. Anything shorter and you won't make it back to the ledge.
A 70m rope is a must for the extension. Anything shorter and you won't make it back to the ledge.
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