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> 8 - Summit Crags
> Rappel Rock
Black Quacker
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.8 from 82
votes
Routes in Rappel Rock
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Baradur T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bender-Axen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Black Magic Woman T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Black Quacker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Charadras T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Chiboni T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Chicken Sh*t Sandwich T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Corner, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Helm's Deep T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Lude T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Main Gate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Not So Easy Arch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Other Way, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Quick Death T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Rotissima Bueno T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Storm Crow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Voodoo Child T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Voodoo Child (direct start) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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| Type: | Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | Dave Baker, Mike McEwen, 1971 |
| Page Views: | 10,911 total · 42/month |
| Shared By: | James DeRoussel on Oct 25, 2002 · Updates |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here.
Details
This area is historically used by nesting falcons, hawks, owls or other raptors. Breeding season varies but is roughly February through July. Nesting raptors are protected by law.
If you aren't sure if raptors are breeding here, then listen and watch for defensive behavior such as screeching or diving (links to info). If raptors are breeding in this area please climb somewhere else and let other climbers know.
Pressures on wildlife can be immense and are multiplied by effects of climate change and pollutants. Choosing to climb away from nest sites reduces unnecessary stresses to the birds. Give these animals a chance to thrive.
More info here: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
If you aren't sure if raptors are breeding here, then listen and watch for defensive behavior such as screeching or diving (links to info). If raptors are breeding in this area please climb somewhere else and let other climbers know.
Pressures on wildlife can be immense and are multiplied by effects of climate change and pollutants. Choosing to climb away from nest sites reduces unnecessary stresses to the birds. Give these animals a chance to thrive.
More info here: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
Description
This is a fun route to do if you want a long, sustained trad route. Start in the huge left facing corner near the center of the south face of Rappel Rock.
Pitch 1: Climb the 5.6 squeeze chimney for 40 feet and exit into gully up to tree belay. (Many parties start up the Standard Route instead, to avoid this heinous chimney. To bypass this chimney pitch, climb the 5.5 crack just right of Black Quacker until you can traverse left back to tree belay in gully.)
Pitch 2: Continue up gully, climbing over large blocks and some vegetation. Cleaner climbing above leads past steep moves to one-bolt belay in notch.
Pitch 3: From notch, lead up and left into obvious cracks. Fun climbing for 100' to two-bolt belay.
Pitch 4: From bolt belay, climb right and up around corner. Follow easy face up to belay on chickenheads.
Pitch 5: More easy chickenhead hiking leads to summit area and tree belay.
Descent: Third class down back side of Rappel Rock to return to saddle.
Pitch 1: Climb the 5.6 squeeze chimney for 40 feet and exit into gully up to tree belay. (Many parties start up the Standard Route instead, to avoid this heinous chimney. To bypass this chimney pitch, climb the 5.5 crack just right of Black Quacker until you can traverse left back to tree belay in gully.)
Pitch 2: Continue up gully, climbing over large blocks and some vegetation. Cleaner climbing above leads past steep moves to one-bolt belay in notch.
Pitch 3: From notch, lead up and left into obvious cracks. Fun climbing for 100' to two-bolt belay.
Pitch 4: From bolt belay, climb right and up around corner. Follow easy face up to belay on chickenheads.
Pitch 5: More easy chickenhead hiking leads to summit area and tree belay.
Descent: Third class down back side of Rappel Rock to return to saddle.
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