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Routes in Lower Peanuts
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Air Guitar T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Aspenleaf Dihedral T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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B.A.T.E. Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Black Pearl S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Blows Against the Empire T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Chaucer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cornered, straight up variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Criller T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Dihedral T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Direct Start to Your Basic Layback T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Do or Do Not T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Double Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Easy Off T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Empire Strikes Back, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
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Evangelium Vitae (The Gospel of Life) T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Faith, Hope, and Charity T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Fickle Finger of Eight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Forbidden Planet S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Home Free T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Jackson Browne (aka Fluid Power) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Just Another Girl's Climb T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Let's Jet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Narrow Gate, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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No Visible Means of Support T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Nova (aka Jawa?) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Off The Cuff T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X |
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Peanuts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Pretender, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Rapa Nui (Easter Island) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R |
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Right Escape T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Sacred and the Profane, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Scorpions T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Shield, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Sickle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Star Track T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Strolling T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Tracer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Trouble And Strife T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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West Crack (aka Star Wars) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Whiskey Gala T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Wired T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Young, Blonde, and Easy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Your Basic Lieback T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: |
Trad
Fixed Hardware
(2) |
| FA: | R. & J. Rossiter, 1987 |
| Page Views: | 1,262 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Feb 27, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Approach this climb at lower section of the top of the Northwest face of Lower Peanuts wall by [following] the trail to the main West Arete of the wall. From there, scramble up a left-leaning ramp to a good ledge.
From the ledge, about 40' right of the start of [Star Wars], or 20' right of Double Cracks (and the large pine tree which obscures it) you will see a large left facing open-book with a flake on the right side. Climb & stem up the corner on thin holds and sometimes thin gear. (5.10d) This is the mental crux of the route, but it seemed safe. After this sustained section, you will reach a ledge to belay on.
From the belay, start up and left into left-facing flake which is followed (placing gear) to a ledge. From the rest on this ledge a bolt is visible up and right on the face. Climb past this bolt and up into a small roof (thin crux) to clip another bolt above. Pull through the roof and go up and left on the line of least resistance to a final short dihedral above overhang near the top (moderate). Go up this corner on good gear to the top (5.8).
Walk up and right (southwest) on the sumit ridge to the saddle between Upper and Lower Peanuts wall, then down the loose trail to return to the base.
This route was fun, but not as aesthetic as some of the other face climbs on peanuts, such as Sunrider or Forbidden Planet.
From the ledge, about 40' right of the start of [Star Wars], or 20' right of Double Cracks (and the large pine tree which obscures it) you will see a large left facing open-book with a flake on the right side. Climb & stem up the corner on thin holds and sometimes thin gear. (5.10d) This is the mental crux of the route, but it seemed safe. After this sustained section, you will reach a ledge to belay on.
From the belay, start up and left into left-facing flake which is followed (placing gear) to a ledge. From the rest on this ledge a bolt is visible up and right on the face. Climb past this bolt and up into a small roof (thin crux) to clip another bolt above. Pull through the roof and go up and left on the line of least resistance to a final short dihedral above overhang near the top (moderate). Go up this corner on good gear to the top (5.8).
Walk up and right (southwest) on the sumit ridge to the saddle between Upper and Lower Peanuts wall, then down the loose trail to return to the base.
This route was fun, but not as aesthetic as some of the other face climbs on peanuts, such as Sunrider or Forbidden Planet.
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