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Routes in West Wall
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Banana, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Anesthesia T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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April Fools T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Arctic Breeze S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Arrowroot T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bombs Away T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Captain Coconuts T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Craven Image T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Crazy Daze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dead Tree Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gamoke, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hospital Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Jester, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lady Bug T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Last Laugh, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Magnum Force T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Main Line T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Main Vein T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Nirvana S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Slash, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Third Stone From The Sun T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Vanishing Point T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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West Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 240 ft (73 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Harrion and Smith, 1977 |
| Page Views: | 30,481 total · 138/month |
| Shared By: | Guy H. on Feb 18, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Details
ATTN CLIMBERS: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Description
The is the best 5.10a climb at the Leap, and it should not be missed if you are a 5.10 climber. It is located on the right side of the main wall.
P1: Follow a fun steep 5.8 corner for 120ft to a set of fixed anchors.
P2: The money pitch. Follow the continuous right-facing corner with jams and lieback moves. Milk the stems for rests, since the hardest moves are at the end of the pitch.
Rap with 2 ropes or a single 70M.
P1: Follow a fun steep 5.8 corner for 120ft to a set of fixed anchors.
P2: The money pitch. Follow the continuous right-facing corner with jams and lieback moves. Milk the stems for rests, since the hardest moves are at the end of the pitch.
Rap with 2 ropes or a single 70M.
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