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Ripsaw/Northeast Ridge
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.5 from 20
votes
Routes in Arrowhead
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Airhead T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Arrowplane T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Artemis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Bequeathed T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Country Life T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Diamond Back T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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East Face/Arrowhead T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Full Metal Jacket T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Gimme Shelter T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Glacier Gorge Traverse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Godfather, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Ithaca T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Lost Arrowhead T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Rain Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ramp Tramp T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Refugium T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ripsaw/Northeast Ridge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Shaft, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Shoshone T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sidewinder T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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South Ramp T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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Thai Hot T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c C1 R |
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V-Free T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Warhead T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Watership Down T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1300 ft (394 m), 8 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Richard Rossiter and Joan Johns |
| Page Views: | 6,151 total · 32/month |
| Shared By: | Richard Rossiter on Aug 16, 2008 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Closures
Details
Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
This route ascends the complete northeast ridge from the shoulder above Solitude Lake to the summit of Arrowhead and is joined by the last several hundred feet of the old East Face route. It is reminiscent of the CMC Route on Mount Moran, but is 4 thousand feet shorter and 4 grades harder. Expect some snow on the approach and descent until July.
P1. Climb a beautiful slab and belay up and right on a good ledge with a poor anchor (8, 180 feet) or go 15 feet higher and belay at a poor stance with a good anchor.
P2. Work up and left to a big sloping ledge beneath a steep wall with a conspicuous finger crack (4, 70 feet).
P3. Climb the excellent finger crack to a sort of notch, then go straight up to the top of the pinnacle (First Tower) and belay (10a, 150 feet).
P4. Downclimb 50 feet from the west side of the ledge into a notch (class 4, could belay), then climb 60 feet to a ledge at the base of a perfect hand crack (7, 110 feet).
P5. Climb the hand crack to a step in the ridge, then climb a finger crack to another pinnacle (8, 120 feet).
P6. Scramble to the top of a final pinnacle and rappel 80 feet to a big notch in the northeast ridge. One can escape the ridge at this point by descending a steep gully to the southeast (East Gully, Class 4).
P7. Scramble through some blocky terrain and belay where the angle increases, even with Ledge 1 (Class 4, 180 feet).
P8. Climb the exposed arete on the left to where the angle eases and belay (6, 200 feet). Scramble west quite a long way (staying right of the crest) to the true summit of Arrowhead.
Descend the South Ramp.
P1. Climb a beautiful slab and belay up and right on a good ledge with a poor anchor (8, 180 feet) or go 15 feet higher and belay at a poor stance with a good anchor.
P2. Work up and left to a big sloping ledge beneath a steep wall with a conspicuous finger crack (4, 70 feet).
P3. Climb the excellent finger crack to a sort of notch, then go straight up to the top of the pinnacle (First Tower) and belay (10a, 150 feet).
P4. Downclimb 50 feet from the west side of the ledge into a notch (class 4, could belay), then climb 60 feet to a ledge at the base of a perfect hand crack (7, 110 feet).
P5. Climb the hand crack to a step in the ridge, then climb a finger crack to another pinnacle (8, 120 feet).
P6. Scramble to the top of a final pinnacle and rappel 80 feet to a big notch in the northeast ridge. One can escape the ridge at this point by descending a steep gully to the southeast (East Gully, Class 4).
P7. Scramble through some blocky terrain and belay where the angle increases, even with Ledge 1 (Class 4, 180 feet).
P8. Climb the exposed arete on the left to where the angle eases and belay (6, 200 feet). Scramble west quite a long way (staying right of the crest) to the true summit of Arrowhead.
Descend the South Ramp.
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