Very important for all new DL climbers fixin' to do leads: It is VERY difficult rock, slick and hard, smooth. 1.) Plan on toproping several routes first to get a feel for the quartzite. 2.)It is generally accepted that you begin several grades below your sport level. Seriously. I mean you need to plan on leading the 5.4 and 5.5 routes there to start. Many accidents in recent years have been from gym or sport climbers coming there and starting off with a 5.9 they can't protect well and falling. I don't have plans to get there until the weekend of Sept.23rd. Best of luck.
Woodchuck ATC wrote:Very important for all new DL climbers fixin' to do leads: It is VERY difficult rock, slick and hard, smooth. 1.) Plan on toproping several routes first to get a feel for the quartzite. 2.)It is generally accepted that you begin several grades below your sport level. Seriously. I mean you need to plan on leading the 5.4 and 5.5 routes there to start. Many accidents in recent years have been from gym or sport climbers coming there and starting off with a 5.9 they can't protect well and falling. I don't have plans to get there until the weekend of Sept.23rd. Best of luck.
Listen to him, the routes at the lake were put up years ago when 9's were the hardest grades out there. They are sandbagged and a .7 could be like a 10. I've been climbing at the lake for years now, possibly 10 or longer, and I can toprope 10's but I stick to the lower grades when I lead. I just led a .7 solo with my rescuscender, and it was really difficult. then aquired a belayer for another .7, birthday crack to be exact, and took a 20' whipper, almost decking out due to the slickness of the rock, the heat and sweat, and I thought I had a good grip to clip a cam high above me, well I didnt. good thing is, most of the rock is bomber, if you know what to look for in a placement. Hell, hit me up, im always looking for someone to climb with
Weekends, not hard at all. Midweek this late in summer(as alot of college age climbers are headed back soon), not as easy. By 10:00AM if there are gonna be some climbers, they are usually headed up the CCC trail by then. That's the place to find a climber; also at base of Balanced Rock trail by the tracks. Enjoy!
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