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JFK
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Jul 24, 2011
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San Diego, CA
· Joined Apr 2009
· Points: 5
I'm coming back from a trip to Spain where I just brought my sport rack and a set of nuts for the ease of traveling and everything's bolted over there. What kind of stuff can I get on at Cathedral or Whitehorse? Slabs at Whitehorse? I lead trad up to 5.10b/c. Nothing for a trad rack other than nuts, so I'm basically just looking for runout slabs or topropes. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Jon H
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Jul 24, 2011
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PC, UT
· Joined Nov 2009
· Points: 118
Depends on how big your nuts are, literally and figuratively.
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Timothy
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Jul 24, 2011
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Fort Collins, Colorado
· Joined Feb 2011
· Points: 10
Buy acouple of red and pink tri-cams from IME in N. Conway and go up standard on whitehorse
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Gunkiemike
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Jul 25, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2009
· Points: 3,492
Maybe some of the cracks at the north end of Cathedral. Or just go to Rumney instead!
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john strand
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Jul 25, 2011
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southern colo
· Joined May 2008
· Points: 1,640
Run out slabs ? Up to 10C ? Reverse camber- very good Windfall Short Order Children's Crusade (first 3 pitches) awesome Seventh Seal All these are 5.9/10 Also lots of stuff on Humphreys
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Andrew Mertens
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Jul 25, 2011
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Fort Collins
· Joined Feb 2010
· Points: 136
Future shock (5.11-) on whitehorse is a great fully bolted slab route on whitehorse. You foot traverse a rising dike with reasonable spaced bolts. Ventilator (5.10b) on the lower left wall of Cathedral is a fun almost fully bolted slab route, but you may want a cam for the moves to the first bolt (be careful if you don't use one). The Last Unicorn (5.10b) is a three pitch route up the south buttress of whitehorse with bolts for all the hard moves, though there is a little 5.8/5.9 climbing protected by gear. I think (but use your discretion) you'd be fine with just nuts- the first ascentionists were. Also if you are leading 5.10 trad, sliding board (5.7), standard route, and beginners route (both 5.5) would feel very reasonable with just nuts. Nutcracker (5.9) on the barber wall got its name because Henry Barber only used nuts on the first ascent, though I've very much appreciated cams when I've climbed it. Hope this helps, Andrew
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Andrew Mertens
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Jul 25, 2011
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Fort Collins
· Joined Feb 2010
· Points: 136
Oh, and ethereal crack (5.10d) pretty much only takes nuts. Also, its fun and easy to set up topropes on Airation (11a), Camber-to-Reverse Camber (5.11b), and Peanut Gallery Flake (5.11b) and you can get a great workout in.
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JFK
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Jul 25, 2011
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San Diego, CA
· Joined Apr 2009
· Points: 5
right on, thanks for the suggestions. Keep 'em coming if you got more.
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Lee Hansche
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Jul 27, 2011
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Allenstown, NH... and a van…
· Joined Jan 2007
· Points: 24,335
i think it is extreamly relative to how comfortable you are running it out and how experienced you are with placing gear... the cracks around north conway tend to take nuts very well... i am however very happy to have some cams on most routes... one that id have to add to the list is Thin Air (5.6) to Pine Tree Eliminate (5.8+) Lots of pins and good nuts on Thin Air and i never reach for cams on Pine Tree...
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Jason Antin
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Aug 1, 2011
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Golden, CO
· Joined May 2009
· Points: 1,375
Also...They Died Laughing @ the "North End" of Cathedral is a classic and swallows passive pro. It's a very reasonable 5.9! In fact it was my first 5.9 gear lead.
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