where to go in penn. and at the gunks i need some pointers

a salt lake climber just heading to pennsylvania and new york on july 20 for a week and just need some pointers on where to go in pennsylvania and the gunks

First of all, as a PA climber, I'm sorry. Go to the Gunks, go to Seneca, or be prepared to settle. If you're desperate I'm in Harrisburg, and I can point you towards what little we have to offer within a few hour's drive.

hit the gunks and keene vally. if you want the low down pm me and you can give me a phonecall

What about for a guy headed to Penn to live? Please tell me I can climb something somewhat close (State College). I have heard that access issues are rampant, what with so little BLM and so much private property.

Kenny Clark wrote:What about for a guy headed to Penn to live? Please tell me I can climb something somewhat close (State College). I have heard that access issues are rampant, what with so little BLM and so much private property.

The only place near State College that I've heard about is Bellefonte Quarry, but it's probably still closed. Appalachian Outdoors is a gear shop in State College that's supposed to be pretty good. You could give them a call.

Kenny Clark wrote:What about for a guy headed to Penn to live? Please tell me I can climb something somewhat close (State College). I have heard that access issues are rampant, what with so little BLM and so much private property.

Governer Stables has good bouldering about 2 hrs from State College. Birdsboro is a grid bolted quarry with 1 pitch sport routes from 5.2 - 5.13 and is about 30 minutes further. Other than that, expect to poach shitty little cliffs on private property or sack up and drive 3 hours to Cooper's, 4.5 hours to the Gunks, or 5.5 hrs to New River Gorge.

Dan, where in Pennsylvania will you be? Near Lancaster there is Mt. Gretna, one of the best bouldering spots in PA. Governor Stables is on private property, only open certain days, and one must be a member of an organization to climb there, not the best for a visiting climber.

Kenny, State College is a great central location for bouldering in PA. I spent a year there going to school. There is a tremendous amount of underground bouldering in Elk County, which is close. I can put you in touch with one of the developers who is still very active and lives is State College. Hunter's Rock (the best problems are on private property and you will most likely be asked to leave) is within 45 minutes.

Bellefonte Quarry is closed and you will be arrested for trespassing if you are caught there. I would not bother with Birdsboro Quarry.

I spent the last 5 years living and climbing in Salt Lake City. Pennsylvania has some incredible bouldering, it is just not published. Pennsylvania lacks BLM land but we have plenty of State Game Lands.

i will be in lansdale but will travel about anywhere a couple hours away and definatly going to the gunks for sure for a day or two i know there are few places that match salt lake but im down to just climb new rock and have some good times. thanks for all the help

dan soria wrote:i will be in lansdale but will travel about anywhere a couple hours away and definatly going to the gunks for sure for a day or two i know there are few places that match salt lake but im down to just climb new rock and have some good times. thanks for all the help

You'll be pretty close to Birdsboro Quarry. It's not a destination, think of it more like an outdoor climbing gym, "Reconstituted Choss to 5.14" Here's the up-to-date Topo. The best place to go would be the gunks, i'd say at least 3 hours drive from there. Also, The delaware water gap is a little over an hour away where I-80 crosses jersey/PA. I'm about 40 minutes north of where you'll be if you need a partner or advice.

I'll echo skinny legs and say that the bouldering here is pretty darn fantastic. If roping up is your thing then you're going to have to drive, but the Harrisburg to State College area isn't a terrible place to be located, pretty much equal distance (give or take an hour) from the gunks, Seneca, and The New.

Bellefont is definitely closed, and Birdsboro is definitely a choss pile that you definitely wouldn't want to drive all the way from State College to get to. There is some roped climbing spread about the state, but you have to look for it, and like someone else said be willing to settle for less than spectacular stuff.

So if you're like me and like bouldering enough to pass the time between weekend trips to the good climbing, you're all set.

Lansdale isn't far from haycock (40 minutes?) if you're looking for some good bouldering. I don't know it well, I don't boulder much, but here's a guide to some of it. I could probably get you some more info on there if you need.

And birdsboro is choss, but it's close enough to where you'll be (less than an hour) that you can get your climbing fix without having to spend a whole day driving.

Dan, definetly hit up Haycock if you are close. Char Fetterolf published a guide to the area 10 years ago. It appears that at least part of the area is included in Rob Holzman's guide as per Larry's link. Haycock is in my opinion the best and most extensive accessible bouldering in PA.

Like Seth said, Pennsylvania has great bouldering between trips to West Virginia, etc on the weekends. The roped climbing mainly consists of short toproping cliffs on restricted land, very little trad and even less sport.

Hey Dan,

I grew up outside of Lansdale and can confidently say that you should maximize your time in New York. The Gunks are still my favorite place to climb in the US (although you have to deal with crowding.) The Adirondacks are simply amazing if you have the time to drive up there. The Spider's Web is chocked full of unbelievable classics. Fastest Gun on Poke-O is a must do if you are in the area.

As for PA....Haycock was basically in my backyard and although it has some great problems, it tends to be a bit spread out and hard to find. I would try to find a local to show you the way and the classics (and definitely a pad or two!)

Within an ~hour of Lansdale you also have Ralph Stover (High Rocks) which is mostly top-roping on shale cliffs. I wouldn't recommend it as a destination but if you have a day where you can't drive far and want to climb, there are still some fun climbs: Phonebooth and Called On Account Of Pain are local classics along with Neanderthal and Stopper Ceiling. Some routes are ~leadable~ but most require a ton of webbing for TR setups.

Although Birdsboro may not qualify as a destination, I would not dismiss it as a complete choss-pile (although it does get greasy in the summer!) If you are up for it, there are still some very fun routes there; the full extension of Hinterland (12c/d) is a great tour-de-pump with a challenging crux up high.

Your best bet is to find an experienced local who may be able to show you the classics and steer you away from the large amount of short choss. PA summers tend to be hot and humid; it would be nice to have someone who can direct you to the better, shady routes/cliffs.

Dan Godshall wrote:Within an ~hour of Lansdale you also have Ralph Stover (High Rocks) which is mostly top-roping on shale cliffs. I wouldn't recommend it as a destination but if you have a day where you can't drive far and want to climb, there are still some fun climbs: Phonebooth and Called On Account Of Pain are local classics along with Neanderthal and Stopper Ceiling. Some routes are ~leadable~ but most require a ton of webbing for TR setups.

FYI, Stover is can be an oven in the summer, it's south facing and really sheltered. The plus side is you can head down to the river for some relief, there's a good swimming hole in it if you head east to the riverbend. Most of the popular routes have new bolts and chains on them now for TR setups(there's an active guide service run out of doylestown that maintains them), so not much is required to set them up. It's about 15 minutes from Haycock, so if you're up there it could be worth checking out. Birdsboro on the other hand has constant shade and also many routes stay dry if it is or has rained.

it all sounds good i get out there on the 20th and leave on the 27th. im down to climb every day just hit me up and definately hittin up the gunks for a day or two. text me if you wanna climb and throw back a beer or two 1-801-792-9716

If you are near State College, the place to go is Hunters. I'm surprised no one has mentioned it. Great bouldering! The quality is almost as good as Coopers, IMO. I would pass on roped climbing in Central PA, but Donation is open again if you insist on roping up.

When I was at PSU, I went to Hunters quite frequently.

PA has some of the best bouldering in the country IMHO. I've been all around and PA is AWESOME! If you come near NE PA, hit me up!

just heading to the quarry for a little send see you there if you wanna climb