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Glacier Gorge/Spearhead condition report

Original Post
Jeff G · · Colorado · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,098

Went into Glacier Gorge yesterday (July 3) and climbed on Spearhead. The first bridge walking plank is gone but small trees have been placed across the stream and the hand rail is still in place so it was easy to get across. The second bridge is broken but you can easily walk across the broken planks. All snow the last 3/4 mile to Black Lake and into the gorge but the snow is firm and we were not post holing. We had ski poles and light approach shoes which was fine. Stiffer boots would have been nice in places to kick steps but not really needed.

Looking down towards Black Lake. All snow but firm and nice walking.

Looking down towards Black Lake. Lots of snow for July 3rd!

Once in the gorge walking is easy on the rock slabs. The snowfield at the base of the wall is big but once the snow softened up it was pretty easy walking.
Spearhead conditions on July 3, 2011.

We climbed All Two Obvious and the route was dry and in perfect condition.
Adam coming up the 10c finger crack on his onsight send of ATO.

Adam on ATO.

The South East descent ledge is totally dry. Fun boot skiing to get back to the packs!
Descending the snowfield back to the base of Spearhead. NE face of Chiefshead in the background.

We talked to other climbers who had done the Barb and it sounds like it is dry. Sykes and N. Ridge also look good.

The Spearhead is prime and the Gorge is spectacular with all the snow, go get some!

303scott · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 195

Climbed Sykes on Saturday. First two pitches (below middle earth) were wet but manageable. The rest was mostly dry. We were glad to have crampons for the snowfield to the base, which is about 25 feet higher than last year at this time (and quite steep at the top). The northwest descent was dry except for about 100 feet, which was tricky and wet/a snowfield. Because we had crampons we chose to descend the snow field there, but saw others downclimb the wet rock. I would expect Sykes to be mostly dry by next weekend.

P1 of Sykes on July 2.
The snowfield to the base of Sykes on July 2, 2011.

Phil Lauffen · · Innsbruck, AT · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 3,098

Did the barb yesterday(4th) and the mental crux of the day was getting to the base of the climb. Be prepared to kick steps. The physical crux was the hike in. Route was totally dry. Snowshoes were nice where crowds had packed the trail to ice.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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