That rock is total garbage - tried the 5.11/12 on the overhanging northwest face (pictured), and pulled multiple holds off. Every hold had grit rolling off my hands just for purchase.
Set up top-ropes on the easier north side, and again, the rock quality was horrible, even on seemingly similar slab angles. The quality of the ridge extrusion obviously changes dramatically within close proximity. Climbing (or mostly not climbing) this choss-fest reminds me of how clean the Corpse Wall formation is. My advice? Stay away, go somewhere else for the sandstone looseness you seek...like Texas Canyon. It's waaaay better.