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The Phantom Menace
5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.9 from 93
votes
Routes in Tatooine
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Force, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hyperspace S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Jawa Jam S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Leia Needs A Lightsaber S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Leia's Leash S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Midichlorophobia S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Millennium Falcon S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Phantom Menace, The S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Scum and Villainy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Spaceballs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Star Destroyer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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That's Not A Lightsaber S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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This Is A Lightsaber! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Triumphal Arch S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 75 ft (23 m) |
| FA: | Darren Knezek |
| Page Views: | 4,051 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Darren Knezek on Apr 28, 2009 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
I really like this climb. It's a sport climb, but feels like a trad route. When you stop and think about it no move feels harder than 5.5. That's as long as you stem up the corner properly. 5.7's on limestone usually aren't this fun or thought provoking. It climbs up and to the right, ending in the right side of the roof.
"Remember, concentrate on the moment. Feel, don't think. Trust your instincts."-Qui-Gon Jinn from The Phantom Menace.
You may feel like leading parts of this climb on cams and nuts. I wouldn't. The start has a corner that would vibrate whenever I struck my hammer to it. The rock to the left was solid, but the corner to the right sounded hollow. At the crux near the 5th or 6th bolt, you pull a roof. Normally I would put the bolt right above the roof for a nice clean fall. The roof sounded hollow but wouldn't budge with a pry bar. That doesn't mean it wouldn't come off in a fall with a cam placed behind it. After placing said bolt I whipped on it a few times to make sure the fall was safe.
"Remember, concentrate on the moment. Feel, don't think. Trust your instincts."-Qui-Gon Jinn from The Phantom Menace.
You may feel like leading parts of this climb on cams and nuts. I wouldn't. The start has a corner that would vibrate whenever I struck my hammer to it. The rock to the left was solid, but the corner to the right sounded hollow. At the crux near the 5th or 6th bolt, you pull a roof. Normally I would put the bolt right above the roof for a nice clean fall. The roof sounded hollow but wouldn't budge with a pry bar. That doesn't mean it wouldn't come off in a fall with a cam placed behind it. After placing said bolt I whipped on it a few times to make sure the fall was safe.
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