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Beta for Deer's Leap in Vermont?

Original Post
Joe Vaughan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 0

Is anyone familiar with this area?

I'm hoping to take some newbies out this weekend. Looking to set up a top-rope on Standard Route (5.4) and/or Off-Width (5.6).

The route description for Off-width says "hard to top-rope". Anyone have further details?

Mike Baetz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 95

Off width doesn't have a fixed anchor and there aren't any trees at the top (maybe WAY back?). There is a crack at the top of the climb you can build a good gear anchor if you're leading, but I think it would be hard to get to a place where you access the crack to build a good gear anchor from the top of the cliff.

The center crack is a good top rope- bolt anchor you can reach from the top. Its a good bit more sustained than Off width but no move is all that much harder. It would be fine for beginners, I think. It might be better for beginners than Off Width- I recall seeing people flail on the first couple moves to Off width.

It used to be pretty easy to miss the turn to the cliff on the hike on your first trip up there, if I recall correctly. Its not a long hike by any means, but I also remember the hike being a bit exciting for newbies so you might want to scope out the hike before dragging some folks up there. I'm sure there's a less direct way that doesn't involve scrambling.

I've heard of people tring the cliff above deer leap proper, which never looked like all that much to me but could be a good option for true beginners. There also an easy route that is pretty fun that is just below deer leap proper but I forget the name. Pretty sure it has bolted anchors.

Joe Vaughan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 0

Thanks Mike!

Jason Hayden · · North Clarendon, VT · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 9,585

Center Crack, 5.7 is your best bet for an easy long top rope.

As you start up the climbers trail there is a newly cleaned climb up to the left of the parking lot. It is bolted with anchors and is a 5.5 or 5.6 and can be top roped.

Also if you take the left hand branch of the climbers trail and stay left instead of going to the main cliff there is a bolted 5.6 or 5.7 that could easily be lead and top roped.

Have fun

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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