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By Jay Harrison
Jan 14, 2013
There is no variation of this route beginning below the Patio.
The Direct Variation is (IMHO) 5.12a and begins at the Patio directly below the route's crack line. Climb up the short slab to reach the beginning of the crack - here it is more of a seam - and continue all the way up. The beginning 15' are very technical & sequential. The pro, while adequate, is very strenuous to place and requires care and skill to place properly. One placement is effectively blind, and is critical to do right. Improper placement of that piece will almost certainly expose the leader to a bouncing fall past their belayer. In short, this is not a good entry-level testpiece for hard 5.11/5.12 leaders.
I should add that there is yet another variation of the standard line that reduces the grade to 5.10c/d: at the upper overhang, swing way right to catch the outside corner. It's not as pretty as the direct run following the seam, but it is easier.
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