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High Plains Drifter
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.5 from 19
votes
Routes in The Pages Wall Area
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44, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Box, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cheap Date T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Corner Pump Station T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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El Camino Real T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Fat City Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Final Chapter, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Frisky Puppies T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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George's Tree T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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High Plains Drifter T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Howling at the Wind T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hurley Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hurley Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Interceptor T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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M.I.C. Exit [aka Parable of the Cave] T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Midway T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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New Music T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Osiris T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Outlander T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Perelandra T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pseudo Wallet Eater T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Right Exit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Stepped On T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Toot T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Wolfie and the Scientist T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 5 pitches |
| FA: | Mike Caldwell and Randy Farris, 1986 |
| Page Views: | 6,804 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | paco on Apr 30, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23
Details
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
High Plains Drifter is a high quality, mostly face variation to Fat City. Keep in mind that some of the bolts are spaced a bit. This is not a sport climb.
Approach via Fat City or The 44 and belay after the 10c crux roof. from this belay step left onto the slab and climb the THIN 10b crack straight up to the first bolt. The other and perhaps safer option is to continue up Fat Citys third pitch for 10 ft then cut left on an undercling to the first bolt. Taking the undercling makes the climb 10a but but watch out for rope drag! From here, make a tricky move to the first bolt and continue left and up fast three more bolts. This face section of this pitch is super clean and nicely exposed. Soon after the last bolt you'll pop onto a low angled easy slab. either go up and left to join Georges Tree 5.9 or go right to a seldom climbed 5.10? sickle shaped crack.
Approach via Fat City or The 44 and belay after the 10c crux roof. from this belay step left onto the slab and climb the THIN 10b crack straight up to the first bolt. The other and perhaps safer option is to continue up Fat Citys third pitch for 10 ft then cut left on an undercling to the first bolt. Taking the undercling makes the climb 10a but but watch out for rope drag! From here, make a tricky move to the first bolt and continue left and up fast three more bolts. This face section of this pitch is super clean and nicely exposed. Soon after the last bolt you'll pop onto a low angled easy slab. either go up and left to join Georges Tree 5.9 or go right to a seldom climbed 5.10? sickle shaped crack.
Protection
High Plains Drifter is a mostly bolted one pitch climb however gear is needed for the start of the pitch and the pitches leading to it and after it. Bring your standard lumpy rack. Also, bring RPs and maybe some HB offset brass nuts if you plan to do the 10b thin crack(see below). Three of the four bolts are nice and new. However, the first bolt (which is actually an old, obsolete belay anchor) needs to be replaced.
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