Limiter knot on a sliding X

I generally tie a cordelette when anchor building, but not always...

If one of the anchor points were to blow with a sliding x set up, the other one or two anchor points will be shock loaded unless you tie a limiter knot, or so I've heard. Anyone have a useful diagram or tips on how to tide such a limiter knot on a 3 point anchor?

Thanks in advance...

my 2 cents: forget the 3 limiter knots and just tie one big figure-8 or overhand in your cordelette at the tie in point. IMHO, 3-way sliding x (sliding w?) is overly complicated and will likely not slide well anyhow.

To tie load limiting knots all you need to do is put an overhand knot in each section of cord that is attached to each piece. Put the knots closer to the master point- roughly 3-4" away from the master point. You still get the Sliding X equalization but with limited movement and this way if one piece were to give the extension and therefore shock load would be minimized.

Yes, it's called the Equalette. Check it out in John Long's Climbing Anchors. In fact, just buy the book because it's amazingly informative.

1. You clove hitch two of your pieces, usually the ones that are closer together


2. Pull the two strands together, and tie two loose overhands. Clip your last piece, and move the overhand knots around to where you want them to limit movement. Twist one strand, and you have a three piece, limited sliding x anchor!


I tie a cordelette 90% of the time, but use the equalette when: the rock is suspect; I can't get in two bomber pieces and want to spread the force out; the pieces are too far apart to tie a cordelette; I want to nerd out.

tooTALLtim, your gear placements suck, no way will that hold a fall.

Rick Blair wrote:tooTALLtim, your gear placements suck, no way will that hold a fall.

But they are dynamically equalized so it's ok.

3 knife blades pounded along the edge of that sliding door track would be solid.

Rick Blair wrote:3 knife blades pounded along the edge of that sliding door track would be solid.

No way! The door frame blows and you're a goner!

If you drill a bolt into the plywood in the floor though it'll be bomber! Maybe I should start carrying a stud finder with my cord????