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Watchman's Secret
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British PG13
Avg: 3 from 6
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Routes in WatchTower
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Alchemy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cry for Merlin T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Crybaby S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Excalibur T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Seventh Sojourn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sword In The Stone (Clarent), The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Watchman's Secret T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Watchman's Secret, Variation T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 320 ft (97 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Marc Ripperger, Matt Lawry |
| Page Views: | 1,029 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | John Kear on Jun 12, 2011 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
A very nice new route on the right side of the Watchtower formation.
Pitch 1 - Start 15 ft or so right of Seventh Sojourn and a bit left of the first pitch of Excalibur. Climb steep face with a little bit of pro to gain the first of the bolts. Follow the bolts through tricky moves eventually heading out right to a belay about one hundred feet up.
Pitch 2 - Step up and right from the belay gaining short crack systems that lead up to gain the line of protection bolts that lead to the steep left facing corner above. Wild stemming and tiny gear will get you through the crux section. After the crux continue up to a large ledge and another bolted anchor.
Pitch 3 - Step right and follow the bolts up the nice headwall. Interesting and featured rock make this pitch highly entertaining.
Pitch 1 - Start 15 ft or so right of Seventh Sojourn and a bit left of the first pitch of Excalibur. Climb steep face with a little bit of pro to gain the first of the bolts. Follow the bolts through tricky moves eventually heading out right to a belay about one hundred feet up.
Pitch 2 - Step up and right from the belay gaining short crack systems that lead up to gain the line of protection bolts that lead to the steep left facing corner above. Wild stemming and tiny gear will get you through the crux section. After the crux continue up to a large ledge and another bolted anchor.
Pitch 3 - Step right and follow the bolts up the nice headwall. Interesting and featured rock make this pitch highly entertaining.
Location
Located of the Watchtower starting in between Excalibur and Seventh Sojourn. The route finishes well to the right of the other established climbs. It will cross Excalibur near the end of the first pitch.
Protection
Light rack to 2" be sure to have RPs and at least a couple of tiny cams. We used 00 and 000 C3s on the 2nd ascent. 12 Quickdraws.
There should now be a bolted rap route to get to the base of the the climb. Be sure to have a 70 meter rope as the raps are 35 meters. Each pitch has bolted cruxes and the last pitch is all bolts.
There should now be a bolted rap route to get to the base of the the climb. Be sure to have a 70 meter rope as the raps are 35 meters. Each pitch has bolted cruxes and the last pitch is all bolts.
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