Agree to disagree. Where I come from bolting extremely easy 4th class rock is considered bad ethics. Rumney is the first place i have climbed where retro-bolting once climbed trad routes (w/ the FAs consent of course) is considered normal fare. I think that this policy has opened up many climbs in Rumney that might not other wise have been climbed because it is dangerous, and I like it. I just dont see the sense in putting in 2 bolts on easier angled rock. There are hiking trails in National Parks (ie Yosemite, Zion) that feature ground just as steep w/ no protection.
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Jun 18, 2011
I'm pretty sure somebody put the lower bolts in later for going directly up to the climb. There used to actually be a fixed line, then later a wooden ladder thing off to the left to get people up to the actual climbing for the routes above as the easy slab was very mossy and often soaking. Keep in mind also, this spot can get very crowded and with lots of beginners, so a few extra bolts on what you would consider easy ground might not be as terrible as you are making out. I have never actually climbed Nuthatch since it was bolted, but I know when the routes to the left first went in, we scrambled up to the ledge, then used the (then) lowest bolts as a belay anchors.