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Routes in Dome Rock
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[Redacted] T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Air Corner TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Anti-Jello Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Arwen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Between Nothingness and Eternity S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Close To The Edge T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Direct Anti-Jello Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Fruit at The Bottom T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Good Samaritan, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Handycraft TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Just Barely T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Last Dihedral, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Last Homely House T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Left Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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More Raisins T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Old Man Quiver S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Red Mushrooms T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Sanitarium T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Saucer Full of Secrets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Save the Wails S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Tobin's Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Tree Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Vicious T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Windjammer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 6,434 total · 33/month |
| Shared By: | john durr on Jul 13, 2008 |
| Admins: | Cory B, Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
An excellent sustained moderate crack climb. It looks wide and ugly from below, but is actually 2 pitches of excellent hand and finger crack climbing. Follow Arch Bitch-Up 5.8 to top.
Pitch 1: Left Crack starts at Tobin's Dihedral. Stem/lieback the first move of Tobin's to reach a horizontal thin crack. Traverse the crack right 30' (crux) and follow the crack as it curves upward to form a wide looking (hand size) vertical crack to a bolt/rappel anchor, 5.8 - 120 feet.
Pitch 2: As you follow the moderate hand crack up it diagonals left after a prominent ledge. Option A (recommended) is to follow this crack past the ledge to join the top of Tobin's and continue the nice dihedral to the top of a pillar (gear anchor 1-3" cams) 5.7 - 100 feet. Option B at the ledge traverse about 15 feet right, ascend a short bulge to reach an easy bushy crack left of Arch Bitch-Up to a tree belay 5.8 and spooky - 90 feet. Option C at the ledge follow the crack left about 10 feet up to a wide spot and face traverse up and right to reach the easy bushy crack and belay at the tree 5.8 and spooky - 90 feet. If you did option A, move the belay down and right 20 for the next pitch, easy 5th class.
Pitch 3: Follow the last pitch of Arch Bitch-Up past a slung knob to a bolt, head up and left big knobs to a weird ear / lieback. Bizarre and fun maneuvers past the ear (gear 0.5 - 3" cams) lead to a bolt belay / rappel station, continue past one more bolt and an easy runnout to another bolted belay, 5.8 - 180 feet. Walk off or easy 5th class left then up to the top of the rock.
Pitch 1: Left Crack starts at Tobin's Dihedral. Stem/lieback the first move of Tobin's to reach a horizontal thin crack. Traverse the crack right 30' (crux) and follow the crack as it curves upward to form a wide looking (hand size) vertical crack to a bolt/rappel anchor, 5.8 - 120 feet.
Pitch 2: As you follow the moderate hand crack up it diagonals left after a prominent ledge. Option A (recommended) is to follow this crack past the ledge to join the top of Tobin's and continue the nice dihedral to the top of a pillar (gear anchor 1-3" cams) 5.7 - 100 feet. Option B at the ledge traverse about 15 feet right, ascend a short bulge to reach an easy bushy crack left of Arch Bitch-Up to a tree belay 5.8 and spooky - 90 feet. Option C at the ledge follow the crack left about 10 feet up to a wide spot and face traverse up and right to reach the easy bushy crack and belay at the tree 5.8 and spooky - 90 feet. If you did option A, move the belay down and right 20 for the next pitch, easy 5th class.
Pitch 3: Follow the last pitch of Arch Bitch-Up past a slung knob to a bolt, head up and left big knobs to a weird ear / lieback. Bizarre and fun maneuvers past the ear (gear 0.5 - 3" cams) lead to a bolt belay / rappel station, continue past one more bolt and an easy runnout to another bolted belay, 5.8 - 180 feet. Walk off or easy 5th class left then up to the top of the rock.
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