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Ian working Bulbous.
Id# 107123210, 2000 x 1500px View full size
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By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
May 2, 2011
Remo do you have video of this? I was and remain confused by both Bulbous Center and Bulbous Left. I assumed that the "Left" version used the hold Ian is holding with his left hand here. I have not done either, but would be interested in hearing which was which.
By Brian Runnells
May 3, 2011
I was under that impression as well, one of the reasons why I never gave this problem much effort.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
May 3, 2011
Interesting point. This was taken while we were both working the moves just to get out the roof. I don't really understand the 5 version at all. The whole boulder feels hard to me. I left before Ian sent, so I have no idea how he managed it.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
May 3, 2011
I've tried both coming straight out and going left here, and neither felt V5 or V8 to me, they both felt V-impossible (in July). Need to ask him how he did it and how hard it felt. It's such a cool feature I would love to go back sometime.
By Tradoholic
May 3, 2011
Maybe the V8 is just the V5 with Freaney's beta?
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
May 3, 2011
a ive never tried it so i can't have bad beta yet

b my beta rules 100 percent of the time

c you can be mean and hurtful

d ive left out all capital letters and punctuation to spite you and your cruel heart
By Ian CB
Aug 2, 2011
So I could be wrong, but I checked out the old guidebook and it seems like I definitely did the V8. It says to move left to a pinch for the first move.. unless my memory is going. I am confused what the v5 is too. The steep arete to the right would go. It seems hard and a bit painful.. I'm sure i'll try it again!
By SteveSchultz
Aug 3, 2011
So here's the best that Huston and I figured it out.

Bulbous Left goes straight out left to the pinch, matches there and goes straight up ignoring the small crimp and the v shaped hold. It's an eliminate and was done after Bulbous Left Center after they realized most people can just reach the left hold as the first move. Generally seen as a stupid line not worth doing and not logical at all.

Bulbous Left Center went straight out right to the small crimp in the roof and used a heel hook to gain the left pinch hold. Then went right to the V shaped hold and topped out.

The way most people do this problem now is the way depicted in the picture and in the video, kind of a mash up of the two lines and the most logical. Huston and Todd called this way a 6 or a 7 which seems right in line with traditional DL grades.

Make sense?
By Ian CB
Aug 9, 2011
Saw the old guide the other day and had a second look at Bulbous LC. It is written by EZ, the FA'ist of Bulbous. It says move left to a pinch from the starting jug. Not right to a crimp. It doesn't say anything about eliminating holds. Also in my opinion this is at least as hard as all of the other V8's I have done in the area.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Aug 9, 2011
Clear as mud Ian!!! I guess part of the appeal for me @ DL, similar to Axiom of Arete Aesthetics, is the mystery surrounding each climb. If it felt like a V8 then it was a V8. I tried both versions last summer and damn they both felt hard. Hoping to get back this fall and put this to rest.
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Ian working Bulbous.

Submitted By: Remo on May 2, 2011
On this route:
Bulbous Left Center (V7 7A+ )
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