Near the top of the second pitch (if done as three pitches).

All Locations > Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Lum… > Northumberland Crack (5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a)

Near the top of the second pitch (if done as three pitches).

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The top of Northumberland.

Another shot of the start of the roof....

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Jay Eggleston

Mar 25, 2011

“Near the top of the second pitch (if done as three pitches).”

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Looking down from above the crux.

The bolt below the crack, not 10 feet away but more like 3 feet. Quite useless, because you can plug your first cam right above it. In the picture, I rotated it quarter turn with my hand, loose. The approach to the crack is like a minefield, loose crap all over. There's gear, but the prospect of pulling off chunks of rock made the route less appealing.

The top of Northumberland.

Near the top of the second pitch (if done as three pitches).

Another shot of the start of the roof....

Crawl across "Thank God" ledge, make a scary step across to that nice stance in the bottom right of the photo, then head up some really rotten rock!<br>
Climber is almost to the old 1/4 inch bolt....

Starting the physical crux, not the mental crux, since you have good gear at this point... good #4s.

The final steep wall at the top of the climb. Great jugs make this easy and fun.

The route climbs the cleft and roof crack on the right side of the photo.

Mike climbing the flared chimney at the start of our third pitch. It's also possible to climb this chimney as the end of the second pitch if you have a #4 Camalot available for pro.

Mike starting up the first pitch. When he gets to the tree above him, he will cut left and up to a rotten ramp.

The crux wide crack through the roof. Bring a #4 Camalot (or two) for pro.

Northumberland Crack, second pitch. Traverse right on a ledge towards the crack. Climb up and right through broken rock to a bolt. Climb the wide crack through a roof (9+) to a stance (optional belay). Continue up a flared chimney to a ledge with a tree.

Northumberland Crack, showing most of the second and third pitches. The 9+ crux is the wide crack through the roof in the center of the photo.<br>
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Belay at a stance below a flared chimney or continue to a ledge with a tree.<br>
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Above the tree, step left and climb a steep juggy wall (6) to the top.

In This Photo

Mark Roth

Boulder

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