Best summer sport climbing in North America?

I think I'm the only person who thought Wild Iris was kind of a pile: short, manufactured holds abound, and it's in the sun all day. Why would you wanna go there?

Vedauwoo.

Devil's Lake in June ??? You would be better off in NH and that's pretty bad.
Lots of good stuff in Canmore - a 500 meter 10+ sport, 300meter 10a etc. Alsoup by Jasper lots of good stuff.
My last time up there was the Ghost River, awesome stuff., worth the visit just to look !

john strand wrote:Lots of good stuff in Canmore - a 500 meter 10+ sport, 300meter 10a etc.

Do you know the names of those two routes?

Sisyphus on Chinaman peak is the big one, True grit is the 300m 10. There are others up by Jasper and I;m sure others by now.
I don't remember the Ghost one's name

Tensleep was pretty awesome! I lived about 20 mins outside of it in the next small town over last summer. Sometimes after work me and my buddy would jet out there to get a couple of climbs in. They have the best pizza in the little town too! Id recommend the big game pizza!

Oregon has some pretty fun stuff at Smith Rock, and it wont be quite as hot during the summer! Or you could just come visit me in Yosemite! Ill be there all summer and early fall!

I don't know about New Hampshire but Devil's Lake in June is awesome--usually not too hot and muggy yet.

Colorado is nice, the San Juans have lots of cool, high elevation sport crags:

Silverton

Ouray

Telluride

+1 for Tensleep, I go there every year and it's nothing but spectacular!

A few Tensleep related questions:

Temperatures in June/July? Hot, or just right when in the shade? Easy to chase shade?

More importantly, what is the scene like and what would it be like to find partners there? I'll be traveling solo this summer, and will need to find partners at places I visit. Also, when traveling solo it is nice to have a good lively camping scene, since camping by yourself gets lonely, even if you do have partners to climb with during the day.

I bring this up because the scene many destination areas is pretty quiet. I spent a few days (mid-week) at Wild Iris a few summers ago, and it was totally dead there...just no one around; this was during a spell of perfect weather in mid-July.. If you were there with a partner, you would be psyched to have the place to yourself. But when solo? Super lame.

Anyway, I am tired of scrounging for partners when in solo-trip mode, so would like to go places with a good scene and a large number of people on the long-term dirtbag circuit (like Squamish, where I do plan to spend a good chunk of the summer). Does Tensleep offer this? What about Maple or Rifle? Other suggestions for June/July where it would be easy to find partners?

Jon Moen wrote:A few Tensleep related questions: Temperatures in June/July? Hot, or just right when in the shade? Easy to chase shade? More importantly, what is the scene like and what would it be like to find partners there? I'll be traveling solo this summer, and will need to find partners at places I visit. Also, when traveling solo it is nice to have a good lively camping scene, since camping by yourself gets lonely, even if you do have partners to climb with during the day. I bring this up because the scene many destination areas is pretty quiet. I spent a few days (mid-week) at Wild Iris a few summers ago, and it was totally dead there...just no one around; this was during a spell of perfect weather in mid-July.. If you were there with a partner, you would be psyched to have the place to yourself. But when solo? Super lame. Anyway, I am tired of scrounging for partners when in solo-trip mode, so would like to go places with a good scene and a large number of people on the long-term dirtbag circuit (like Squamish, where I do plan to spend a good chunk of the summer). Does Tensleep offer this? What about Maple or Rifle? Other suggestions for June/July where it would be easy to find partners?

I see what you are looking for now. I generally go to Tensleep because nobody is there and it is quiet so this may not be the place for you. The summer temps are actually ideal, I have been in July 3 times now and only once found myself seeking out shade.

Some strange recommendations in some of these previous posts...

Here are my summer favorites, all these offer some shade and cool temps:

Squamish is great for sport and trad in the summer. Awesome.
Rifle is fantastic in the summer, be prepared to climb hard.
Devil's Head Colorado has good range of climbs 5.10 to 5.12
Independence Pass is great for sport and trad.
Mill Creek Utah if you are adventurous.
Ten Sleep is great by any definition of great.

All have decent to fantastic camping. Best bet to just bump into other partners would be Rifle.

Jon Moen wrote:Anyway, I am tired of scrounging for partners when in solo-trip mode, so would like to go places with a good scene and a large number of people on the long-term dirtbag circuit (like Squamish, where I do plan to spend a good chunk of the summer). Does Tensleep offer this? What about Maple or Rifle?

Do Rifle, should be some summer dirtbags, and great hard climbing.

I've done a good bit of traveling and I would second or fifth or whatever the red river gorge in kentucky.

Dan Brayack wrote:I've done a good bit of traveling and I would second or fifth or whatever the red river gorge in kentucky.

Are you trying to hose the guy? The red in the summer is fucking miserable. 90+F all summer and 90% humidity....totally awesome summer climbing. Sleeping is a joke too...wake up every morning with all of your shit soaking wet from condensation and humidity.

Go west.

Maple is great in the summer too man...easy to find partners, wide grade span...cooler than most places (8000 ft).

Jon Moen wrote: Other suggestions for June/July where it would be easy to find partners?

Jon, have you considered Wright Park?

Derek Doucet wrote: Jon, have you considered Wright Park?

You dirty sandbagger.

Rifle is summer sport climbing...especially if your going solo and looking for partners. Lots of great hard climbing with multiple options for other nearby excursions climbing, mountaineering, whitewater, mountain/road biking, fishing if you're visiting for awhile. Probably be able to hitch a ride from the RRG as the sportos make their seasonal migrations.

Jon Moen wrote: You dirty sandbagger.

Lol. Hope you're well!

Lion's Head, Ontario.