Castlewood vs. Boulder Canyon

I'm planning a trip to the Denver area and I'm trying to select destinations. Which would be a better overall choice Castlewood Canyon or Boulder Canyon?

What are you looking for? Trad, sport, bouldering, hard, easy, toproping, single pitch, or multi-pitch? Personally I'd vote either Eldo (trad) or Clear Creek Canyon (sport), but it just depends on what your looking for.

Boulder Canyon has better climbing and better atmosphere.

I don't think the 2 even compare. Castlewood is a neat place but a lot smaller. I think you can find what is in Castlewood in Boulder Canyon but much of what is in Boulder Canyon you cannot find in Castlewood. There are also a lot of rattle snakes, bees in the cliffs and poison ivy in Castlewood if those things bother you.

Castlewood Canyon : Locals only.
Boulder Canyon : Can rope in people at least from the Springs.

What you have is a pretty good place in Boulder Canyon with a few exceptional climbs, but Castlewood is not all that impressive.

But then again, Little Devil is in Castlewood so if bouldering is your idea...

Castlewood is a place to climb, but I would certainly not say a destination. I would agree with the others, Boulder, Eldorado and Clear Creek Canyons are top notch

Wehling wrote:Castlewood is a place to climb, but I would certainly not say a destination. I would agree with the others, Boulder, Eldorado and Clear Creek Canyons are top notch

He is so right Castlewood is deffinately not somewhere that someone would travel to climb at, Eldo... people will come from all over the US to climb in.

Stich wrote:But then again, Little Devil is in Castlewood so if bouldering is your idea...

Stich, I find it pretty irresponsible to tempt some unsuspecting visitor to our fine state to climb Little Devil(R/X). That's just asking to add another injury to the long list of foolish, failed redpoint attempts.

Castelwood is fun, but I wouldn't travel accross state lines just to climb there. I vote Boulder Canyon.

if u like to tr, castlewood, otherwise there is no comparison.

As someone else mentioned, if you're staying in Denver and want to clip bolts, Clear Creek is the closest area.

Lots of good ideas here, thanks for all the help. I'll probably staying towards the south side of the metro area and will probably do more sport climbing. However, that Little Devil thing looks incredible.

do a little research tons of climbing in front range north table basalt, st. vrain canyon granite, eldo sandstone,shelf road limestone,
south platte granite,morrison, rmnp, horse tooth resivoir,on & on try each & decide for yourself!!!

Cantclimb2much wrote:Lots of good ideas here, thanks for all the help. I'll probably staying towards the south side of the metro area and will probably do more sport climbing. However, that Little Devil thing looks incredible.

Depending on when you are coming, you should check out Devil's Head if you are staying on the south side of the metro area. I believe the road opens up May 1st? Either way, some great routes in a gorgeous setting.

P.K. wrote: Depending on when you are coming, you should check out Devil's Head if you are staying on the south side of the metro area. I believe the road opens up May 1st? Either way, some great routes in a gorgeous setting.

+1

The road is all ready open I believe if you come from the south? That'd be a great place if your staying in the southern metro area especially if your here during the summer. Castlewood = no good in the summer... lots-o-rattlers/ivy/sun

Bob Robinson wrote: Stich, I find it pretty irresponsible to tempt some unsuspecting visitor to our fine state to climb Little Devil(R/X). That's just asking to add another injury to the long list of foolish, failed redpoint attempts. Castelwood is fun, but I wouldn't travel accross state lines just to climb there. I vote Boulder Canyon.

It's pretty unlikely that they would actually climb Little Devil. A lot of very well known climbers have secretly made attempts on it, failed, and snuck out of the state unnoticed. It probably sees at least 50 attempts per year minimum like this.

I ran into some guy at the airport once with this sullen look on his face and bloody flappers on his fingers. "Little Devil?" I said. He just looked at me with these sad eyes and I saw a tear forming. Then he left.

P.K. wrote: Depending on when you are coming, you should check out Devil's Head if you are staying on the south side of the metro area. I believe the road opens up May 1st? Either way, some great routes in a gorgeous setting.

I can confirm Devil's Head opening weekend was last weekend. Indeed, the climbing in DH is out of this world. There's a variety of climbs for all abilities, spectacular views of Pikes peak from the west valley especially, bolt-clippies, trad. Ugly cracks, overhangs, chicken heads, slabs. etc. It's got it all. There's a new guide book out too. 400 routes, 200 color pages. You can pick one up at REI.

percious wrote: I can confirm Devil's Head opening weekend was last weekend. Indeed, the climbing in DH is out of this world. There's a variety of climbs for all abilities, spectacular views of Pikes peak from the west valley especially, bolt-clippies, trad. Ugly cracks, overhangs, chicken heads, slabs. etc. It's got it all. There's a new guide book out too. 400 routes, 200 color pages. You can pick one up at REI.

So is the road open from the north and the south?

P.K. wrote: So is the road open from the north and the south?

Actually, Devils Head is open from the east and the south right now. The north entrance will be closed until 5/1 for tree removal. To approach DH from the east: head west out of Sedalia and then south on highway 105 for ~6 miles. Then head west on Jackson Creek road. Stay on the main road heading west until it ends at Rampart Range Road. There are a few roads that spur off Jackson Creek, but the path to Rampart Range Road should be pretty obvious (keep heading west). Once you hit the T at Rampart, head south until you reach the DH campground. This approach has a lot of blind curves, but it's in good shape. The climbing was amazing this past weekend. Good temps and mild wind.

In regards to the OP, check out Devils Head. It offers some of the best sport climbing close to the Denver metro area. Castlewood has it's time and place, but it's not in the middle of the summer on a road trip. Boulder Canyon also has its place, but I wouldn't consider it a destination. Have fun!!!

Keith H. North wrote: He is so right Castlewood is definately not somewhere that someone would travel to climb at, Eldo... people will come from all over the US to climb in.

You better go tell all the Frenchies, Germans, Spaniards, Singaporeans, Aussies, etc... that I've been meeting over the years in Eldo that it's not an international destination! (*wink*)

I'm just sayin'...

Stich wrote: It's pretty unlikely that they would actually climb Little Devil. A lot of very well known climbers have secretly made attempts on it, failed, and snuck out of the state unnoticed. It probably sees at least 50 attempts per year minimum like this.

I heard a rumor that Chris Mcnamara's next video "Hard Aid" is going be filmed on Little Devil. If I can find the link to this information I will post it here. Check climbing or Alpinist.

Castlewood is basically like going to a climbing gym, only outside and with rattlesnakes. If you are in the South Metro, its ok for after work or need to get in and get out early runs. All day plans? Devils Head by far.
There is a enormous amount of bouldering at CWC if you're into that. But other than during the dead of Winter with high winds, its not worth the drive down from the North side of town, much less from another state.
Now that I've dissed my home area, some locals are going to start up with Wednesday after work sessions out there if you're interested