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Mike Lane
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Apr 12, 2011
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AnCapistan
· Joined Jan 2006
· Points: 880
You know what I mean. You're sketched. Its right in the middle of the section that gives that route its 5.9 rating. You first grabbed the wrong piece, then fumbled even more getting the one you want. The fist lock is fading. Starting to Elvis. Finally the piece is set, and you give it the tug. Then, you give it that second tug. You know what I mean. The one where you kind of grip the sling just a little too long, use it to calm down and take a breath. When you bring your mentor on up to the belay, he grants you the onsight of a route that has seen 8,756 prior ascents. And you fail to mention that tug. Did you really get that onsight? Did You!?!
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Evan Sanders
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Apr 12, 2011
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Westminster, CO
· Joined Dec 2010
· Points: 140
If the "tug" was a part of the final anchor and there was no more climbing left....I'd say it's an onsight. If it was in the middle, no.
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mountainhick
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Apr 12, 2011
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Black Hawk, CO
· Joined Mar 2009
· Points: 120
Is yanking on yer gear cheating? Yep
Mike Lane wrote:You know what I mean. You're sketched. Its right in the middle of the section that gives that route its 5.9 rating. You first grabbed the wrong piece, then fumbled even more getting the one you want. The fist lock is fading. Starting to Elvis. Finally the piece is set, and you give it the tug. Then, you give it that second tug. You know what I mean. The one where you kind of grip the sling just a little too long, use it to calm down and take a breath. When you bring your mentor on up to the belay, he grants you the onsight of a route that has seen 8,756 prior ascents. And you fail to mention that tug. Did you really get that onsight? Did You!?! Nope.
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kwyatt
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Apr 12, 2011
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NC
· Joined Mar 2010
· Points: 10
Is yanking on yer gear cheating?
nah...my wife is ok with it... ;)
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Wiled Horse
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Apr 12, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2002
· Points: 3,669
not cheating, its "fraid" climbing. (free/aid climbing) :) on the other hand, if you chipped the 9 into an 8....
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Monomaniac
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Apr 12, 2011
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Morrison, CO
· Joined Oct 2006
· Points: 17,295
Depends. Did you put your harness & helmet on in the parking lot and walk to the crag with hexes clanking around for all the tourists to admire?
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mountainmicah83 Morgan
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Apr 12, 2011
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Colorado Springs
· Joined Apr 2009
· Points: 210
Yanking on gear isn't cheating, it's Aiding! If you yank it isn't a free ascent! Yanking while free climbing just means you are too scared to take the fall. We have all done it but it is not an onsight if you use something other than the rock to climb.
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Wiled Horse
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Apr 12, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2002
· Points: 3,669
Monomaniac wrote:Depends. Did you put your harness & helmet on in the parking lot and walk to the crag with hexes clanking around for al the tourists to admire? now what if they were tricams? (sp?)
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Francisco Di Poi
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Apr 12, 2011
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Boulder, CO
· Joined Sep 2009
· Points: 20
is there such a thing as an onsight aid climb? if so then you onsighted it
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Monomaniac
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Apr 12, 2011
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Morrison, CO
· Joined Oct 2006
· Points: 17,295
Darren Mabe wrote: now what if they were tricams? (sp?) Depends on the size. If we're talking #7 Tricams, that's even better.
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Wiled Horse
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Apr 12, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2002
· Points: 3,669
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W.S.
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Apr 12, 2011
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Montana
· Joined Oct 2009
· Points: 65
Yeah, but who cares? Call it 5.8 A1.
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J Schmiddy
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Apr 12, 2011
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Pittsburgh, PA
· Joined Jan 2009
· Points: 20
Yes, you onsighted it using "French free climbing".
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Cragophilia
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Apr 12, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jan 2011
· Points: 795
"Yanking on gear isn't cheating, it's Aiding! If you yank it isn't a free ascent!" Exactly...
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d e
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Apr 12, 2011
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Reno, NV
· Joined Oct 2010
· Points: 10
kwyatt wrote:Is yanking on yer gear cheating? nah...my wife is ok with it... ;) +1
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Mark Roth
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Apr 12, 2011
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Boulder
· Joined Jan 2008
· Points: 14,062
Not cheating, as long as you don't stick clip it.
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Jhernand
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Apr 12, 2011
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Salt Lake City, UT
· Joined Apr 2009
· Points: 175
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Mike Pharris
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Apr 12, 2011
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Longmont, CO
· Joined May 2007
· Points: 125
Darren Mabe wrote:not cheating, its "fraid" climbing. (free/aid climbing) :) on the other hand, if you chipped the 9 into an 8.... ^^like
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Colonel Mustard
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Apr 12, 2011
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Sacramento, CA
· Joined Sep 2005
· Points: 1,241
If you yank on somebody else's gear, it could be cheating. Otherwise, it is just A0.
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Phil Lauffen
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Apr 12, 2011
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Innsbruck, AT
· Joined Jun 2008
· Points: 3,098
Mike Lane wrote: Then, you give it that second tug. You know what I mean. The one where you kind of grip the sling just a little too long, use it to calm down and take a breath.! Thats a noob tactic. All true tradmasters understand the usefulness of the rope stand. 1) Clip the rope into the piece above your head. 2) Position the rope optimally beneath you. 3) Slowly stand onto the rope, leaning back a bit as you go. 4) Voila, no hands rest.
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AWinters
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Apr 12, 2011
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NH
· Joined Apr 2007
· Points: 5,120
bad form, but who really cares?
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