Best Tahoe area climbing under 5.10 ?

I'll be moving to South Lake Tahoe for 4 months this summer. Can anyone suggest some good climbing areas or specific routes to try close by under 5.10?

Also is it easy to find a partner? Can you just find someone after getting to the spot?
Thanks in advance.

Big Chief Center Wall and Lover's Leap have moderate routes.

Lover's Leap is one of the best place in the country for 5.6-5.9 routes. To me, it kind of feels like California's version of the Gunks, with excellent steep and juggy moderate routes. It is very close to South Lake Tahoe and has excellent summer weather (if it is hot, get up early for morning shade). "The Line" (5.9) is one of the best routes there.

There are lots of other great crags in Tahoe with plentiful moderates as well. Check out Supertopo's listing... supertopo.com/routebeta/sou…

THE LEAP!!!!

Oh, guess that's already been said...

Phantom Spires and Donner Summit have rad routes .6-.10. Stellar granite. You've picked the right place to climb!

Bump to Lovers Leap. Mostly trad and mostly 2-3 pitches so if you're looking for sport and/or single pitch climbs, this is not the place. Also check out Phantom Spires and Sugar Loaf.

Bump to buying the SuperTopo guide for South Lake Tahoe.

About half the campers in the Lovers Leap campground are climbers. Not sure if you'll be able to find a partner on the spot though.

BTW, nice fish!

You guys are getting me pumped to get out there! I'm mostly interested in trad so I guess I'll be in heaven. Definitely will have to pick up the SuperTopo guide.
Thanks for all the suggestions.

Thanks, The fish is my personal best walleye. 28.5" about 8.5 pounds. That was a fun day.

Donner Pass has a lot of good moderates, particularly the Snowshed Wall and Black Wall. It would be about the same driving time from South Lake if there isn't heavy traffic.

Head over to Eagle Creek Canyon at emerald bay. follow the trails to 90' wall. has great climbing, trad with bolt anchors on top for each climb..you can top rope all of them too. all single pitch, hidden in a beautiful spot with a water fall and little creek at the base of the cliff.

This is the best place iv been to out in Tahoe.(only place too lol) but definitely check it out. routes range from 5.6-5.11

I would have to disagree with Paul and say 90 Foot Wall is not that good. In fact, if you go on a weekend, it will downright suck. It is not "hidden," either, if the mobs of people there are any indication.

In addition to the Supertopo guide, you can use the "best routes for me" feature on here and set your grades accordingly.

It is not that easy to just pick up a partner at most SLT spots in my experience. It's best to arrange one in advance if possible. Sometimes I've encountered road-trippers in the Leap campground trolling for partners, but not that often. The Spires and walls at Donner have a lot of single pitch and a group might be amenable to lending a rope if you just showed up, but you'd probably get a lot more mileage if you had a pard to begin with.

Thats too bad I was imagining a waterfall paradise. Climb on a hot day and take a wash under the falls after. I plan to be climbing as much as possible. So hopefully every weekend. I'm sure I'll meet some people soon after getting there to climb with. I've only had 60' trad climbs here so it won't be hard to get my jaw to drop. Its going to be a fun summer. Hope to see some MP folks out there.

I might be breaking a taboo in using this name;if you want some fun sport climbing in a unique setting-ask a local how to find the Elephant's Graveyard.Pretty darn cool. And, for when time is a factor, the Pie Shop (just south of the Lake on Hwy 50)has quite a few moderate cracks in good quality granite. You're gonna have a blast!

Hey Bill,

My name is Kyle and I'll also be in Tahoe for the summer starting the beginning of June. I'm stoked to climb a bunch this summer. Send me a PM - it would be great to check out some of Tahoe's great routes.

Cheers,

Kyle