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Trying to learn to lead climb Colorado Springs

Original Post
Patrick.b.Smith · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 0

I am looking for someone to help me learn to lead climb in Colorado Springs. I have a fair amount of TR experience maybe 5.8 or 5.9 (I've haven't climbed often in a long time) so again I looking for a person of persons to let me climb with them and help me learn the ropes :)

Thanks

Patrick

Eli Helmuth · · Ciales, PR · Joined Aug 2001 · Points: 3,456

Learn from a professional- you won't regret the investment:
ClimbingLife Guides
Leading, multi-pitch, and rescue clinics May-Sept. in Eldorado and Boulder Canyons; just a hop, skip, and jump from CS.
Climb on!

Buster Jesik · · Estes Park, CO · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 501

I agree that hiring a professional guide is the way to go, especially in C springs, there are a lot of sketchy climbers down here, there have already been 4 accident's or near accidents in the garden this year.

I am a guide who works in springs, If you'd like send me a pm and I'll give you the inside info on the local guide services

Clifford Mallory · · Casper WY · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 25

Great advise from the other two.

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520

Not having learned to lead or climb from a professional guide, I agree that it would be worthwhile to get some sort of structured instruction. Definitely look into purchasing some good reading material as well.

Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills by Craig Luebben is one of if not the best rock climbing instructional manual out there. Actually, it IS the best guide available for pure rock climbing.

Bonesaw · · CA · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 20

Much agreed! If you can afford it, hire a professional guide for about three or four days and and have him teach you all the nuances of taking the sharp end. That's how I learned to lead and I have no regrets. Also, take a few days of self rescue training.

I'm often surprised by some of the scary things I see from some recreational climbers (poor anchors, poor rope management, on lead with the rope behind their leg, etc.) and many wouldn't have a clue about how to get themsleves off the cliff in an emergency situation. I've talked to some who are opposed to hiring a guide, but I firmly believe that is the best way to really learn. As a recreation climber myself, I became Lead Guide certified through PCGI just to further my knowledge and make me a safer rec climber. It was not too costly and I learned a lot about keeping myself and my second safe. Again, no regrets there. Guides are very knowledgeable and usually very friendly people.

Best of luck to you. Learning to take the sharp end will open up so many new opportunities.

JasonT · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 250

Let me know what a guide costs and Ill get you clipping bolts for 20 bucks less.

Zack S. · · Prescott, AZ · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 35

Patrick,

I'd go with a professional, not some stranger who offers to undercut professional guides who have invested their time and money to become certified. On the other hand, when JasonT gets you hurt, you can sue him into the ground for whatever reason you like, which is not an option you'll have with a REAL guide.

good luck.

erik wellborn · · manitou springs · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 355
Buster Jesik wrote:I agree that hiring a professional guide is the way to go, especially in C springs, there are a lot of sketchy climbers down here, there have already been 4 accident's or near accidents in the garden this year. I am a guide who works in springs, If you'd like send me a pm and I'll give you the inside info on the local guide services
Sketchy springs climbers?! I represent that remark!
bigwallrog · · the farside · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 20

yea f**k it!

We can show ya how to do it .buy me a sixer n bring your pampers rosebud yer gona need em.

Michelle R · · Colorado · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 5
Stich wrote: Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills by Craig Luebben is one of if not the best rock climbing instructional manual out there. Actually, it IS the best guide available for pure rock climbing.
I'm very new to climbing. I have this book, among others, and it is my go-to favorite. And it works well as a coaster for ya beer.
Glenn Schuler · · Monument, Co. · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,330
Buster Jesik wrote:especially in C springs, there are a lot of sketchy climbers down here
no doubt, Becker, Dunn, Wellborn, Mclaughlin, Schmitt & the like.... better be careful who you hook up with around these parts.
erik wellborn · · manitou springs · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 355
Glenn Schuler wrote: no doubt, Becker, Dunn, Wellborn, Mclaughlin, Schmidt & the like.... better be careful who you hook up with around these parts.
Dont forget Gallagher; that guy is waaay out there..
jmeizis · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 230
Glenn Schuler wrote: no doubt, Becker, Dunn, Wellborn, Mclaughlin, Schmidt & the like.... better be careful who you hook up with around these parts.
Have you heard some of the stories from those characters? It reminds me of the story I heard about Bridwell dragging someone up The Nose and screaming at them the whole time and almost killing them. Man some of those guys have good stories. Anyways, a good climber does not necessarily make a good guide.

Patrick, you can go out with some climber from the internet or the gym and truth be told you may have a good time. Might learn some stuff and it will be pretty cheap in the short term. On the other hand you can hire a certified guide (with a real certification, not something they made up), have a great time, learn tons of stuff beyond just how to lead climb that will pay dividends over the lifetime of your climbing. A few hundred dollars sounds like a lot of money when you think of it as just one day of instruction but the habits and tools you learn from that instruction will help keep you safe over a lifetime of climbing.
Tim McCabe · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 130

And a good guide will know the right way to shit in the woods. Just kidding, but really it is part of becoming a competent outdoorsman.

Just a little thread drift based on some other threads popping up lately.

Even after taking some classes it's still a good idea to find a competent partner. Even if that partner isn't any more experience then you are. By competent I mean willing to take the time to work their way up the grades safely.

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520
Les Phillips wrote:I became Lead Guide certified through PCGI just to further my knowledge and make me a safer rec climber.
There is no way to become a safer rec.climber. Once you become one it's all downhill from there.*

  • refers to the Usenet newsgroup rec.climbing. Yes, an in joke.
JasonT · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 250

Patrick, dont listen to Zack...he only boulders v4. He cant know what hes talking about. Get an estimate from a certified guide and Ill show you the ropes for 20 bucks less...in the Garden no less, where sketch was born.

Monty · · Golden, CO · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 3,525
Glenn Schuler wrote: no doubt, Becker, Dunn, Wellborn, Mclaughlin, Schmidt & the like.... better be careful who you hook up with around these parts.
If Mclaughlin is on that list I definately think Schuler is too.
England · · Colorado Springs · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 270
erikwellborn wrote: Dont forget Gallagher; that guy is waaay out there..
I climb with Dunn, and Gallagher. Pete is pretty safe compared to Jimmie.
Monty · · Golden, CO · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 3,525
England wrote: I climb with Dunn, and Gallagher. Pete is pretty safe compared to Jimmie.
safety meetings don't count as being safe!
Buster Jesik · · Estes Park, CO · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 501
JasonT wrote:Patrick, dont listen to Zack...he only boulders v4. He cant know what hes talking about. Get an estimate from a certified guide and Ill show you the ropes for 20 bucks less...in the Garden no less, where sketch was born.
Unless you carry the proper permits and insurance you will be breaking the law. Realistically you could probably get away with it, but with the guides and rangers who run around the garden you could be looking at serious fines or worst if you get caught.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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